Food talk
Tikka goes green

The refreshing dhania tikka is different from the run-of-the-mill vegetarian
kebab, writes Pushpesh Pant

WHEN it comes to vegetarian kebab the repertoire, it must be conceded, is rather limited. The usual fare is paneer tikka or hara kebab. To be honest, both are rather satisfying, even tempting, for the carnivores too when well made but there in lies the catch. It is so easy to fall in the trap of lowest common denominator.`A0The professional caterers do it ‘all knowingly’ to cut costs and save time and at home we feel ignorance is (not in this case) bliss.

The paneer is seldom creamy or marinated adequately; to make matters worse, it is more often than not charred while grilling and the sprinkler showered on top is pre-packaged chat masala of undistinguished lineage.

The only thing common to the hara kebab encountered at different place is the colour — truth be told not even that. The poor patty can have an appearance from refreshing emerald to dirty mossy verging on blackish brown.

Legend has it that the chef of a gourmet nawab of Awadh created it for a vegetarian guest — that it is prepared with palak, chana/chholiya. Gone are the days of lore and yore. Ubiquitous paneer has taken over. The core of this kebab is also formed with cottage cheese. The same stuff may even be served as a ping-pong sized ball in sabz kofta with makhani gravy.

To set the record right, there are honourable self-respecting exceptions. Chef Janardan Dhyani of Paatra at the Vasant Continental in the capital serves an exquisite matter ki tikki that for us is the supreme hara kebab — light, tasty and innovative and our palate is still tingling with memories of naughtily piquant achari paneer tikka cast like pearls before you know who at a shaadi ka khaana by an anonymous ‘cook’ employed by the nameless tent house last year.

The run-of-the-mill kebabs are depressing and this is why when we tasted dhania ka tikka at our strictly shakahari aunt, we were quite thrilled. Do try it out, tinker with the recipe, tweak it by adding and subtracting garlic ginger pastes and aromatic spice powders — stay away from panner and boiled alu mash, even in miniscule quantities, and enjoy with hari chutney.

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