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THE present wedding season in India is witnessing a grand revival of couture from the courts of Mughal maharajas and Rajput kings. Sherwanis, bandhgalas and achkans are once again jostling for attention with angarkhas, salwar suits and lehenga-cholis. Richly embroidered and embellished with pearls and semi-precious stones, these outfits are available in silk, spun-tussar, terry-wool, jamavar and sand-washed silk. Even safas (traditional headgear) are coming with diamond pieces stitched on. "People want to look different," observes Vijay Dabholkar, a retailer specialising in wedding wear. "The wedding is one occasion when a bride can look a princess and the groom can behave like a prince. Everybody wants to make the most of the occasion." Dabholkar points out that the fascination towards westernised outfits for wedding trousseaus has been short-lived. "It was a passing phase that did not last even for two years," he explains. "Ultimately, we all need get back to our roots." Rajiv Premnath, a Bombay-based fashion consultant, however, feels that the trend for ethnic wear is influenced by the West ever since designers like Ritu Beri and Tarun Tahiliani have been making major inroads into fashion capitals like Paris, Milan, London and New York. "They are the ones to have created interest in Indian wear," she elaborates. "And once the westerners started sporting salwar-kameezes and angarkhas, we are following suit. We always like to imitate what the West does first." Another significant aspect about the designs this season is that there is nothing exclusive in the styles, cuts and silhouettes being retailed. "There are only shops which stand out for their variety and range, rather than exclusivity," says Dabholkar. have the same styles and designs; only that the colour schemes and fabric could be different. If you have been to one, you have seen them all." The most popular colours of the season are red and maroon, followed by shades of pink, peach, blue and cream. In menswear, shades of bronze, copper, light green and purple are most in demand, particularly in silk, satin, organza, net and tissue. Hand embroidery in bridal wear assumes traditional forms like zardozi, katori, nalki and debka, which stand out for the bold and seemingly rough-hewed motifs. Peacocks, butterflies, elephants and, of course, paisleys constitute the essence of embroidery styles. Pearls are added to create an opulent look. But those who want more embellishments, are stitching ornamental beads and semi-precious stones to their dresses. Dupattas and odhnis are looking particularly dazzling with a variety of stones, including diamond pieces stitched on. "There is nothing new about these designs," emphasises Rajiv Premnath. "They have been with us for ages, only that they keep getting in an out of fashion. Earlier, some designers claimed credit for them. Today, they have become wiser, knowing well they cannot fool the public."— MF
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