Sacred quest
Rubinder Gill

Dharamsala Diaries
by Swati Chopra. Penguin. Pages 277. Rs 295.

Dharamsala DiariesSEEKERS and the faithful both have trodden the religious, spiritual and the transcendental path since time immemorial. In a country where religion, rituals and spiritual are used interchangeably, unsnarling the maze of webs in pursuit of personal consciousness and spirituality can be a Herculean task. Dharamsala accommodates all, the tourists, the seekers as well as the faithful. "Dharamsala offers a refuge to the spiritual seeker, a harbour to the spirit. It is a starting point, a bridge, a journey. It feels immediate, not eternal, a caravanserai rather than home."

With a growing interest in the West in Buddhism, Dharamsala has emerged as a cosmopolitan centre where the all-pervasive materialistic world has acknowledged the right of the spiritual and the two co-exist. Dharamsala beckons all and embraces all, the faithful seekers as well as those "traveling on the trial of a spiritual high".

Swati Chopra’s book is a personal narrative of the seeker, in the quest of ancient and mysterious wisdom in the modern fast-pace materialistic world. The amalgamation of the two is the central point of Dharamsala Diaries. The journey begins from the dusty lanes of the Tibetan refugee settlement at Majnu ka Tilla in Delhi. In Dharamsala, the author explores the town as well as the tenets of Buddhism. Taking up residence in a guesthouse, she sees and slowly becomes part of the struggle of the refugee couple Pema and Thondup who run it.

There are many facets to Dharamsala, the origin of the place, its growth and finally (rather fittingly) its reincarnation as a spiritual centre. Slowly and painstakingly, the layers are peeled off one by one to unveil a different yet striking and an unconsciously known aspect of the place. This is in tandem with explorations of the doctrines of Buddhism, which seem different yet known. With effortless ease, Swati puts the doctrine of Buddhism in context as it has come back to the land of its origin, changed yet the same. Slowly, almost poetically, she progresses in her quest, as ever eager and also satiated as she makes her way from the outer circle to the inner.

The book is mainly about Buddhism and the spiritual solace offered by it, but it is not exclusively about it. She also explores the multi-religious aspects of Dharamsala. She follows the "Tibetan monastic maroon" as well as the "colour of sadhu’s ochre robes" to discover the spirit of the place. Even before Dalai Lama made McLeodganj a household name the world over, Dharamsala was the land of Devis, where the Divine Feminine was worshipped, but the sacredness extended beyond them to the realm of wandering sadhus and searching yogis. The Devi legends are permanently celebrated in the temples, which abound in and around Dharamsala. Chamunda Devi, Jwalamukhi, Chintpurni celebrate the cult of Shakti.

After Sawti Chopra explores the myriad streams of sacredness (some of which have taken a more ritualistic aspect) Dharamsala emerges as a "microcosm of spirituality". As the author says, "In the global spiritual supermarket, Dharamsala is an alleyway with a vast array of choices—you can pick according to your tastes and budget and the values you hold precious. Thus, along with reputed organisations and well-regarded teachers, there are others that offer instant solutions for everything from bodily ailments to emotional turbulence."

The book is an excellent read for those even with a passing interest in religion, spirituality or even a plain interest in knowing a place. Chopra’s narrative of the every day humdrum of life is nicely balanced against the spiritual context where the two become entwined to present life. You get what you are looking for. It molts into different things for different people. So is the case with this book, you will get what you are looking for.





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