Food talk
Potato pleasure

Mushrooms, zimikand or salted nuts can be used to make the filling for alu keema bharwan, writes Pushpesh Pant

YOU may well think that we verge on perversion but we love keema and potatoes equally. Our day is made if these two are paired. We have committed sacrilege by adding deep-fried — ah, so seductively golden —brown alu to dum ka keema Hyderabadi or emerald-specked keema matar. There was a time when in Dak Bungalows in the hills of Uttar Pradesh, the khansama, a relic of the Raj, took pride in dishing out as specialty for favoured patrons a Shepard’s pie — delicious mince encrusted by a potato shell, paired with caramel custard, it was sheer bliss.

The crackling fire in the fireplace left nothing to be desired. But, alas, gone are those days and not many can replicate that magic at home. Then, there is the riddle of tandoori alu — a common enough vegetarian kebab, what has intrigued us is that why a non-veg version hasn’t been tried out. One explanation is that tandoor, to mix metaphors, isn’t everyone’s cup of tea and tandoori delicacies are to be relished only in a dhaba or restaurant. A friend recently used us as guinea pigs to finalise his bharwan alu maansaahaari and we were much impressed with the results.

You may well say that we are a biased party but let us assure you that the recipe has many virtues. It reduces the quantum of red meat intake and balances the meal combining starches and proteins.

Tandoor is not absolutely essential, an oven will do and at a pinch parboiled potatoes pan grilled work just fine. For those who abhor non-vegetarian fare, the mince can be made with mushrooms, zimikand or salted nuts. The spices used in cooking or sprinklers on top give you a unique opportunity to show off. Don’t waste time drooling. Just do it.

alu keema bharwan

Mince 300 gm

Potatoes (large) four to six

Oil 3 tbsp

Bay leaf one

Cinnamon 1 inch piece

Brown cardamom one

Cloves two to three

Red chilli mild

(Kashmiri variety) 1/2 tsp

Turmeric 1/2 tsp

Cumin powder 1/2 tsp

Dhania powder 1/2 tsp

Garam masala 1 tsp

Salt to taste

Parboil the potatoes, cool and peel. Halve and hollow taking care not to pierce through. Heat oil in a non-stick pan and put in the bay leaf, cloves and the cardamom. When these begin to change colour add the mince reduce heat to medium low and stir-fry well till the mince is well browned and the raw smell is gone.

Now add the powdered spices along with the salt and stir-fry for another two-three minutes adding a tbsp of water if necessary to avoid scalding. Remove and allow the mince to cool. Scoop in equal portions in the hollowed potato boats.

Arrange the stuffed potatoes carefully on the non-stick pan and pan-grill to colour the ‘bottoms’. Use the remaining mince to make a bed on the serving platter and garnish using your imagination. We love a dollop of sour cream or hung yogurt on top, a few slivers of salted pistachios. But let us not get carried away. Enjoy.

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