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The green state of Nagaland, with its 15 colourful tribes, offers a unique experience,
writes Sujata Varadarajan
NAGALAND, a verdant and a tribal state of Northeast, still attempts to hold on to its traditional way of life as much as possible. This is a land of almost perpetual festivity as its one tribe or the other celebrates a festival almost every month. Many of these festivals revolve around agricultural seasons, some are meant for purification or to keep old customs alive. Recently, a new festival called the Hornbill festival (it is the state bird) has been created. The intention behind this festival (December 1st to December 5th) is to bring together different tribes, especially their youth. Kohima is the capital, which is at a two-hour drive from the nearest airport at Dimapur. Most people do not spend much time in Dimapur, however, the museum here is worth a visit. There are also remains of the medieval Kachari kingdom. During the scenic drive to Kohima, the road winds its way through hills, covered with thick forests or green terrace farms. A four-wheel drive and a local driver/guide are recommended. As fuel is expensive in these parts, this could be one of the major costs of the trip. Visiting Naga villages is quite enjoyable as one can actually experience how these people live in close proximity to nature. They are warm and friendly people, extending hospitality to visitors as well. One is sure to get an invitation if one arrives during a feast. The tribals have a strong sense of identity and community bonding. These hardy and agile people are skilled craftsmen, hunters and warriors. Even the very old among them lead active lives, working on their land. There is a lot to see
in Kohima. The state museum has an interesting collection of tribal
artefacts, log drums, tools and implements, old Naga currencies,
attire of warriors and dresses and costumes. The museum provides
detailed information on the fifteen colourful tribes.
A visit to the market is recommended to savour the local flavour. It has stalls piled up with local fruit, vegetables, herbs, chillies (the hottest in the country), edible insects, fish and meat. Women sell local honey and bamboo shoot extract by the roadside. The Nagas are expert weavers; each tribe has its own patterns and colours. The weave of the shawl also depicts the tribe as well the relative status of the wearer within the tribe. The Konyaks are highly skilled carpenters, and create intricate wooden carvings and other objects. The British war memorial is a cemetery commemorating soldiers who died fighting the Japanese during the World War II. The cemetery is beautifully maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. The inscription on the war memorial stone reads: When you go home Kohima is a good base for a week’s stay. Some of the villages that one can easily visit from Kohima are Kigwema, Jakhama, Dimor, Phesama and Visema. Kisema village, (12 km from Kohima) venue of the Hornbill festival, is a Naga Heritage Village, which comprises of a number of beautifully-built traditional houses and morungs (Naga boys’ dormitories). An hour’s drive away from Kohima lies Khonoma, also known as the green village. This is a typical tribal village showcasing Naga way of life. An interesting fact is that the villagers here have banned hunting and fishing in order to replenish their forests. This is remarkable as meat and fish are important components of the Naga diet. Organic farming is carried out here (as in the entire state), alder trees are planted for nitrogen fixation and certain fields are flooded to collect crustaceans and insects for food. Here, as in other villages, people rear pigs, poultry and herds of mithun (a kind of bison which live in the forests) for food. The Angami village of Touphema is about a two-hour drive from Kohima. The villagers have constructed traditional cottages adjacent to the council hall, especially for tourists. A visit to this village during the purificatory Sekrenyi festival of the Angami tribe, is highly recommended. The whole village comes alive with lively music, dance, local wrestling, pot making and weaving contests. The traditional feast includes various Naga specialties — rice beer, assorted crustaceans and insects, sticky rice, pork, venison, snails, mithun meat, vegetables, smoked yam, chutneys, sweet ginger tea and more. All of it is quite delicious. Apart from visiting these villages, walking and hiking trails are strewn all over the hills. Japfu peak (9,890 feet), south of Kohima is ideal for camping. The Dzuko valley, located behind the Japfu ranges is approachable only by foot. This is an exquisite valley full of bamboo, rhododendrons (in springtime), lilies and orchids (during the rains). Besides this, several national parks and bird sanctuaries lie within in the dense forests. Nagaland is a land, which has seen much strife and war, but it retains its gentle essence, like the people who inhabit it.
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