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The
marriage season is about to begin. Walk into any jewellery store
these days and the chances are that you will be taken on a
guided tour through its various sections, where a dazzling array
of bridal antique jewellery occupies a place of pride. Yes. The
antique look is back with a flashy bang. We are seeing it in the
world around us and have already seen it on the big screen—Jodhaa
Akbar.
Era-inspired
jewellery is in vogue this season and many brides are raring to
get some precious and delectable classic styles for themselves.
Classical and
traditional in its appearance, temple jewellery is commonly
associated with dancers practising temple dances like
Bharatnatyam or Manipuri. More in vogue in southern India,
temple jewellery is characterised by some of the finest
handwork, painfully crafted by skilled craftsmen and jewellers.
Due to the finesse required in crafting it, the time needed to
deliver the jewellery may sometimes even go up to a year,
depending on the number of pieces required.
The reason for
the expensive nature of temple jewellery is obviously the making
charge, which itself is almost one-third of the total cost.
Symbolic of that era was that Tamil Nadu symbol of wealth—the muzhu
kaasu malai( Full gold coin necklace). The muzhu kaasu
malai consisted of 100 half sovereign gold coins, with
different mounts — parrots, peacocks or mangoes. Together with
the mounts, a muzhu kaasu malai had 100 sovereigns of
gold.
Mughal period
in India is aptly referred to as the golden era of jewellery.
Jewels and gold bracelets were used to adorn every part of the
body. Bracelets and bangles for the wrist, jhoomar for the
forehead, haathphool or hand flower for the wrist and fingers
and beautifully studded necklaces of various sizes with
decorative engravings of kundan were in regular use.
Certain
techniques of manufacturing jewellery like kundan setting and
enamelling (meenakar) is still unique as well as popular
in India. Even grooms can stitch studded pendants and broaches
on suitable areas of the sherwani. They can also
experiment with various kinds of buttons made with semi-precious
stones or enamel work.
Victorian
jewellery of the Raj era (early Victorian period) often depicted
flowers that carried special meanings. Among these were forget
me not, symbolising true love, ivy for fidelity, yellow poppy
for wealth and success and violets signifying modesty.
Rajni Kant
Mahto of New Era jewellers of Bombay advises: "For a modern
royal and classy look, one should pick jewellery studded with
diamonds or rubies bringing inspiration from the Victorian era.
Bold and large studded rings and pendants dangled in chains fit
well around the neckline. Delicate enamelling on bangles or kangans
is reminiscent of jewellery from that era".
Art Deco is another type of
antique jewellery that is referred to the art form dominating
the period between World War I and II. The origin of the Deco
period can be traced in Europe in early 1910 superseding ‘Art
Nouveau,’ and it flourished globally till the late 1930s.
Jewellery designer Sharada Moudgil explains: "The jewellery
of this period was highly decorative. Large coloured stones were
predominant in the design. The focus was on the design
sensibilities rather than the size of the diamond. The pastels
were disregarded for colours that were strong and bold. The
style was what we call ‘retor’ today. Long chains till the
natural waistline, danglers, sometimes touching the shoulders,
and large rings are all a part of Art Deco." — MF
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