Jewellery brands woo men
Phiroze Khareghat

ARE office-going men ready to bling? Retailers — from the mass-market Prince Jewellers of Chennai to the venerable Tribhuvandas Zaveri of Bombay — are hoping so, as a new generation of ordinary guys under 40 warms up to such trinkets as titanium pendants, three-diamond rings, silver dog tags and ID bracelets. Bracelets, and that too for men in offices, are becoming common. If you think that diamonds are the best for the fairer sex to wear in the workplace, that slogan is no longer valid. Nowadays it is true for boys also as metrosexual men have entered the fray.

According to Sameer Sagar at West End Jewellers in Mumbai, the male buyer falls into three categories. The heavy type that wears solid rings and chains will wear a Rolex and a solitaire, or maybe some earstuds. The more sober type will choose a quieter design, with a little more focus on workmanship. Finally, the devotional buyer, who seeks iconic images.

Sagar estimates that 15 per cent of the jewellery he sells is for men. The fashion is to craft a number of understated, masculine jewellery styles in silver and titanium steel—some studded with tiny diamonds. Designer Mohan Bhavnani of Bombay says the typical male jewellery customer is between 18 and 45, and adds: "This is definitely a generational fad. The fashion is to craft a number of understated, masculine jewellery styles in silver and titanium steel — some studded with tiny diamonds".

That may help explain why retailers are taking a subtle marketing approach. At its flagship store in Mumbai, Acme jewellers put its hip lines of silver amulets and stones on leather cords in the fifth-floor department—along side denim and sportswear. On the main floor, where the pinstripe clientele roam, only classic watches and cufflinks are on display.

But let us agree that the office fashion trends will be definitely different for the younger executives. Men of today have realised the importance of presenting themselves well. The brands vie to give them the looks that they want. The boys have all these in mind when they opt for jewellery — rings, bracelets, chains, pendants, cufflinks and tie-pins.

Madho Chandra of Prashant Jewellers of Mumbai says: "Of late, men have started wearing silver, diamond and even platinum jewellery. Some wear jewellery as part of their status symbol to show off their opulence. The trend of wearing birth stones is really on the rise."

Although just about 2 per cent of the men prefer to wear jewellery items, the trend is likely to increase in future. Chairman of Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council of India Bakul R. Mehta feels that Indian men have traditionally used jewellery, but its use as a fashion statement is something to look for. Mehta said: "With gold being available in lower carat level (like 8 carat to 12 carat), people have started using the same as fashion."

According to Mehta, the emphasis is on rings/cufflinks/chains, especially diamond-trimmed watch chains. Indian men have traditionally used jewellery. But the young executives have started using trendy jewellery as a fashion statement. This is due to the influence of pop culture and celebrity endorsement." — MF