A drama called Delphi

Sujata Varadarajan visits the archaeological site of Delphi, which is a Unesco world heritage site

A sculpture of Apollo at the museum at Delphi. In Greek mythology Apollo was the god of light and the sun; truth and prophecy; archery; medicine and healing; music, poetry, and the arts. As the patron of Delphi (Pythian Apollo), Apollo was an oracular god — the prophetic deity of the Delphic Oracle. Apollo was also seen as a god who could bring ill-health and deadly plague as well as one who had the ability to cure — Photos by Uma Malhan

Delphi, considered by ancient Greeks to be 'the navel of the earth', is located dramatically on the edge of Mt Parnassus in the valley of Phocis in Greece.

In Greek mythology it was the site of the Delphic oracle, the most important oracle in the classical Greek world. It was a major site for the worship of the Sun god Apollo.

Various myths describe the origin of Delphi. Initially the Earth Goddess Gaia or Rhea was worshipped here. A temple here was dedicated to Apollo after he slew the serpent Python (the son of Gaia and the guardian of this area). Delphoi is associated with delph (hollow) or delphus (womb) - a possible allusion to Gaia. Another myth claims that Apollo, in the form of a dolphin, guided a Cretan ship to this site and asked for a shrine to be built here (delphis is the Greek word for dolphin).

Delphi is 178 km north-west of Athens and can be covered in a day trip. However, it is most magical in the quiet hours of the day and an overnight stay is recommended to appreciate the monuments as well as the backdrop.

It is a pleasant drive from Athens via Livadia. Driving in Athens is difficult. Therefore, it is better to travel through the rest of the Greek mainland by car. Rental prices are low, roads are well kept, major road signs are written in English and Greek and the smaller signs are also comprehensible.

En route is a small ski resort Arahova just before Delphi. It is a charming little village with shops lining the main street, selling handicrafts and a variety of local food.

A short drive away is the village of Delphi, known primarily for its proximity to Ancient Delphi. This is a pleasant two-street village with a range of hotels, restaurants and shops and is a convenient base for visiting the old site.

The theatre at Delphi was built in the 4th century B.C. of local Parnassus limestone and was remodelled several times subsequently. Its 35 rows could accommodate around 5,000 spectators

Ancient Delphi is majestically placed on a pine-covered slope overlooking the Pleistos valley. To the south is located the Gulf of Corinth. The main entrance is at the site of the Roman Agora (a public open space used for assemblies or meetings). From here a path leads on to the Temple of Apollo. Further on is the large 4th century BC theatre and a stadium. The stadium still contains the original etched stones that demarcated starting positions for athletes during the races.

Below and to one side of the Temple of Apollo was the Castilian Spring (now dried up), used for cleansing purposes before the oracle initiated the process of prophesying. Remains of the Sanctuary of Athena (4th century BC) and two ancient gymnasiums are also located here.

Delphi was known not just for the sanctuary of Athena and the oracles, but also for the Pythian Games (a forerunner to modern Olympic Games).

Several of the structures are fragmented and incomplete. But it is easy to imagine imposing structures in the middle of the mountains, shrouded in an atmosphere of mystery and worship. This site is where the two eagles, which Zeus released from the eastern and western ends of the world, met. It was once accepted as being a central, powerful and sacred site. Important Gods were worshipped and thanked at the site. In ancient days the walkway or the sacred way leading to the temple of Apollo was adorned with statues and other valuables sent by various persons or cities in gratitude to Apollo. Oracles sat near a chasm below the sanctuary, inhaling fumes as a part of the ritual procedure. The prophecies uttered by them at that time had the power to alter the course of history.

The only new building in this area is the museum, which houses a large and fascinating collection from Delphi as well as other parts of Greece.

A visit to the nearby monastery of St Luke (Moni Osios Loukas) is worthwhile. It is located in a village close to Distomo (3 km south of the Athens-Delphi road). St Luke was a local hermit who possessed healing and prophetic powers. The monastery, a world heritage site, is well known for its marble work and 16th century mosaics. They also sell thyme honey here, which is a local specialty.

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