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The demand for cufflinks is booming, and men and women are rediscovering classic cuff buttons, writes Pankaj Mehta
Till recently Indian men (ladies too) were yet to really discover cufflinks as a style accessory. But the recent emphasis on bling for the metrosexual man has made the cufflinks, which can be adorned with diamonds/colourful precious stones or simply made in 24- carat gold, stage a grand comeback. The demand for antique cufflinks is booming, and men and women are rediscovering classic cuff buttons. Cufflinks, as we know them, were first used during the 1700s, when gentlemen were on the lookout for something more elegant than ribbons or ties to hold their cuffs together. Finally, they resorted to using small handmade chains that were fastened to a gold or silver button or a gemstone, and fed through the holes of the cuff to keep them together. Perhaps the most famous (and expensive) cufflinks ever were sold at an auction for Rs 1.7 crore in 1987. They were a gift from Wallis Simpson (later Duchess of Windsor) to Edward VIII , then England’s king, and were in platinum with diamonds forming the initials E and W, and were custom-ordered by Simpson in 1935. As such, the luxury domain has been the natural habitat of cufflinks. With material as varied as gold, sterling silver, gun metal and brass used in addition to the gemstones’ embellishments, luxury brands are able to present cufflinks in trendy designs. An integral part of formal western dressing, cufflinks today enjoy a comeback of sorts with more people preferring to make a traditionally sartorial statement. It is the luxury brands more than the others that have innovated in both design and manufacture of cufflinks.
The fashion effect of the cufflinks depends on the shirt you are wearing. A nice pair of cufflinks can look really good, especially if the rest of your outfit is formal. Some really good shirts don't have the pair of holes necessary for wearing cufflinks, but most work or dress shirts seem to. Some will have buttons as well, which you can cut off if you don't intend to use them. You probably need sleeves that were cut for cufflinks; all that involves is having two button holes on the sleeve rather than a hole and a button. Shirts with tuxedos often have a button in addition to the two holes. So they could be worn without links. From what one sees, cufflinks tend to be the norm in the more conservative industries like finance and banking, and tend to go hand in hand with a straight-laced, macho culture. I think they look best with shirts designed specifically for cufflinks, or at least without the buttons. Double cuffs or French cuffs, which are twice as long and worn folded back on themselves, are required for cufflinks. Regular barrel cuffs, the everyday kind with buttons, only have the one hole in the cuff, whereas cufflinks and silk knots need two holes. Over the years, the cufflink has developed into an integral part of a man’s wardrobe, especially for tuxedo usage and formal attire, says Adarsh Patel, general manager of Exotic Dress India shop in Bombay. Today most design houses have interesting designs up their sleeve. Japanese fashionistas opine that the lock and key design in cufflink designs is considered auspicious by stock brokers. Italians wear some of the best designs and as per one cufflink aficionado, it is hard to keep pace with them. A sleek pair of cufflinks could be all that distinguishes you from the other well-dressed gents in your workplace. Cufflinks have made their way to all possible events, and a neat pair, with a sleek tie and a matching stud set, could prove to be the much-needed boost for that do-or-die meeting. Worn to replace buttons
on the cuffs, cufflinks can be chosen to match your watch. You can
even try to coordinate it according to your finger rings — silver or
gold. Stainless steel is the usual choice, but accessorising with a
gold watch can make you stand apart. If you are fond of unusual
cufflinks such as animal prints, sports oriented, or one that reflect
your interest in a hobby, then you are better off wearing them to
casual occasions only. Semi precious stones or genuine jewels are your
best bet for formal events. — MF
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The poor cousin of
cufflinks is the silk knot, which is exactly what it sounds like, a
knot made of silk. Its a less expensive form of a cufflink and is
considered just as good, though not as showy.