Indian Coffee House
Adding aroma to life

Even after 50 years, the Indian Coffee House continues to serve and stir its large clientele. The young may find its ‘drab’ image unpalatable, yet its authentic and affordable fare continues to have many takers. Battling a fund crunch, the cooperative-run chain has managed to hold its own in a competitive market. In the ICH’s golden jubilee year, The Tribune correspondents check out what’s brewing at its outlets in Delhi, Chandigarh and Shimla

DELHI
Dishy menu, drab interiors
Vibha Sharma

There was a time when there used to be 12 to 13 outlets of the Indian Coffee House (ICH) in Delhi. The famous Connaught Place branch in Central Park was patronised by the late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi and former Prime Minister I.K. Gujral besides some well-known names in the Capital’s academic and journalistic circles, recalls Indian Coffee Workers Co-operative Society Ltd General Manager Gabar Singh Gusain.

"Mrs Gandhi really liked our coffee and sandwiches. Several times we were asked to do the catering for her official meetings. At times, she also asked for coffee and sandwiches to be sent from her personal account. One of our coffee vans was also parked outside the South Block," says Gusain.

A senior journalist remembers it as the place where people would meet, discuss and debate everything under the sun. Politics, socialism, art, issues before the country, films — everybody had an opinion on everything under the sun. A cup of coffee would cost 50 paisa and it was a great place to hang around in for hours.

Known painters of the time held exhibitions there depicting the issues of those times. It was the place where people could walk in, have a glass of water (they always serve two glasses per person), not have anything and just walk out.

That of course was the golden period in the history of the ICH. Between 1960 and 1975, coffee house-culture, particularly that associated with the ICH, flourished in the Capital. The ICH’s Delhi outlets alone employed 600 to 650 workers in different categories.

But since then much has changed. The CP unit, where Pallika Bazar now stands, was demolished around 1976. Currently, just four units of the ICH are operational in Delhi, which incidentally is also the headquarters of the ICH operations in North India.

The four Delhi branches — one on the second floor of the Mohan Singh Place near Rivoli in CP, other on the 38 Bangla Road and two units in the NTPC in Badarpur — employ around 150 workers.

In all, there are 13 branches in the North, including two each in Chandigarh and Jaipur and one each at Shimla, Allahabad, Ludhiana and Dharamsala, employing around 300 workers, says Gusain.

Of these, the most successful ones are those operating from Chandigarh, Shimla and Allahabad. The origin of the Indian Coffee House goes back to the time when the dismissed employees from the Indian Coffee Board registerd a society and launched operations in 1958.

‘Location’ is the only factor that continues to work in favour of the Mohan Singh Place branch. It is centrally located and can seat around 150 people at any given time. There is ample place to sit on the terrace, an ideal place for a lazy sunny afternoon in winter. On these very tables, famous cartoonist Sudhir Dar would sit for hours in the morning to sip endless cups of filter coffee.

Now the Mohan Singh Place branch appears uninspiring except for the fact that the food continues to be reasonably affordable. After all, where else in the Capital can you still get a dosa for about Rs 25 and coffee for Rs 10, served on your table and within few minutes of placing an order!

But the general appearance of the place is so stark and shoddy that apart from the aroma of freshly ground coffee beans there is not much to bring a customer back. The sofas are torn, the windows have no curtains and the washrooms are stinking.

The aroma of freshly ground coffee beans, brought all the way from Chickmangulore in Karnataka, however has some loyal takers and manages to keep the place alive in the face of cut-throat competition. Incidentally, the coffee powder prepared by the ICH does not have any additives like chicory or chocolate.

The drab place despite its shortcomings appears to be doing okay for itself. Former journalist K.M. Reddy, a frequent visitor to this coffee house whenever he is in Delhi, says nowhere else can a filter coffee cup taste as good as it does here. The only catch is that one has to grab it by afternoon, after which the decline in quality begins.

The unit in CP has also been involved in litigation with the New Delhi Municipal Council. "It is a disputed property. The NDMC has asked us to vacate it," says Gusain.

Then there are other issues as well. New, trendy eating places have ensured that the younger generation is not interested in patronising places like the ICH. Manager Ramesh Chander wants to do many things to spruce up the place — get new curtains, repair sofas, chairs, tables — all of which will obviously cost money.

"Money is a problem," says Gusain, "as right now we are not even managing to break even." The wait is now on to see how long the nostalgia will last.

SHIMLA
Brewing profits since 1962
Pratibha Chauhan

The Mall outlet continues to be popular. — Photo by Sukh Chandan

The Indian Coffee House located on the Mall Road, Shimla, is one of the oldest Indian Coffee Houses of the country. It was opened in 1962. Competition from big names in the food industry has not lessened the popularity of the joint, which till date remains a much-visited haunt.

It may not be that popular with youngsters, who prefer the more happening joints in town. However, a majority of the older crowd still prefers the place not just to savour South Indian delicacies but also to catch up with friends and acquaintances over endless cups of filter coffee.

Amongst one of the earliest ventures of the Indian Coffee Workers Cooperative Society, the profits of the Coffee House have been on the rise. It was in 1962 that the prime property located on the Mall was acquired for a princely amount of Rs 85,000. Even setbacks like losing the top floor of the building due to a fraud committed by a staff member many years ago has not dampened the spirit of those running the place. It’s a different matter that the loss resulted in the shifting of the Coffee House from the top floor to the ground floor. This, fortunately, did not affect the business.

"On an average our sales cross Rs 1.30 lakh per week. Not even once since the ICH was set up in Shimla, have the profits shown a decline," says Suram Chand, Assistant Manager. Competition by coffee houses opened by their old staff in adjacent buildings has not posed a threat to the popularity of the place.

Familiar faces can always be found here at a particular hour every day.

The place is particularly popular with government employees, lawyers and shop owners who enjoy everything about the Coffee House.

CHANDIGARH
For a sip of nostalgia
Aditi Tandon

As you walk the corridors of Sector 17 in Chandigarh, the aroma of filter coffee beckons you. It has been wafting around this place for years, welcoming into its fold old fans of the Indian Coffee House tradition, and seducing new ones. Inside the ICH, a familiar clamour prevails — the kind that’s born when people talk their hearts out. Here, they do just that and even travel the distance from the adjoining cities of Mohali and Panchkula for the purpose. The ambience, they say, is perfect for everything — from political hard talk, lively discussions to emotional outpouring.

In the stall upstairs – a regular feature at coffee houses across India – love birds, most of them schoolchildren who have bunked classes, dream of building their nests — all over a cup of strong coffee for Rs 8 and steaming hot idlis or dosas.

The menu has not changed for years, expect for a few recent additions. These are Chinese preparations that are yet to find favour with the old romantics. "The young like these dishes. But most clients prefer authentic South Indian preparations," says Sushil Kumar, counter in charge, pointing to the menu that has been pasted at the same place on the same wall for years, with the original poster of the Coffee Board pasted next to it.

The poster features legendary Tamil actress Ragini, sipping coffee and flashing a radiant smile. Her face has adorned this wall for years — ever since the Indian Coffee House shifted to Sector 17 from Sector 22 — where it came up in 1964, says manager V. Krishnamurthy Nayar.

The city has two coffee houses, both located in Sector 17, its commercial hub. Since regulations are all centralised, a culture of discipline rules the ICH chain.

That’s perhaps why none of the new food joints have succeeded in deterring the onward march of these two coffee houses. Barista, which opened some years ago in the vicinity of the older coffee house, has since relocated. Though the coffee house management is humble about having beaten competition, clients like D.P. Singh, a retired government college principal, claim, "There’s no equal to the traditional values of good taste, courteous service and unmatched quality which the ICH stands for. I have been coming here since 1966. The day I don’t, I feel incomplete." Singh and his friends, including the celebrated local artist Balvinder, visit the coffee house daily around 11 am to kick-start their day over coffee and discussion. Like many other regular visitors, they reserve their orders till they have occupied their ‘own table’. "That’s the pleasure of being here. You can be at home, sitting at your favourite table, sipping coffee for as long as you want. And no one minds," says Singh, whose group comprises educationists.

And then there are retired judges, former governors, lawyers and writers who mark their daily attendance here. For many of them like J.S. Bhatia and N.N. Mohan, who have thronged the place for decades, the golden jubilee of the coffee house is a good reason to order another cup of coffee. Ask them of the times spent here and they turn nostalgic, "Our lives have been shaped by discussions we have had here amidst coffee and good company. For us, this is like a second home."

They recall with horror that day in the March 2002 when the coffee house had to down its shutters due to a landlord-tenant dispute. Coffee lovers had spent the entire day outside the joint, waiting for its reopening, which happened in a day. Soon, it was back to routine for visitors, who got busy doing their favourite thing—choosing their pick from the range available – normal coffee for Rs 8 a cup; special for Rs 13; hot tray for Rs 9 and cream tray for Rs 16. Contrast it with Rs 40 a cup served by new-age coffee bars.

Every penny is worth the experience it buys, says Shakuntala Lavasa, a renowned allergy specialist who comes from Panchkula to have her favourite idlis and coffee. "There is no coffee house in Panchkula. Not that I would have preferred one. I love coming here. It reminds me of the old times when life was simple and easy. Inside, the coffee house, it still is," she says.

The Chandigarh coffee houses are attached to the Delhi chapter and have waiters that have served in coffee houses across North India, including Shimla and Allahbad. At Allahabad – remembers a waiter – clients would often line up to see Suryakant Tripathi "Nirala", Mahadevi Verma and other literary stalwarts, who were regulars at the coffee house. Among the oldest waiters here are Parmanand and Gopal Krishan, both with 30 years of service and both privy to some "business decisions" taken in the interest of the coffee house. One reason why air-conditioners have not been installed here is to prevent people from getting "more comfortable". The only addition is a small framed message pasted on the wall across the counter. It reads: "Celebrating 50 years of the Indian Coffee House."