food talk
Meat of the matter

Raan-e alishaan dispenses with gravy and can be cooked at home easily, says Pushpesh Pant

There is something about the raan — the hind leg of goat — call it mutton or kid as per your preference, that is magical. Mere mention conjures up visions of a mountain of meat on the platter a veritable culinary kohinoor that trigger drooling. Mostly it is encountered in its tandoori avatar. Marinated more than once, pot-roasted and then finished in the clay oven — the offering at the legendary Bukhara at the Maurya has long enjoyed the reputation of a world champion in this genre.

For our money what is served at the Punjabi By Nature is not only far better value for money but also as good if not better in texture, taste and eye appeal. Paatra, a restaurant at the Vasant Continental, treats its guests to a spicier, moister and a more pleasantly colourful variation. It comes pre-sliced to the table but you can order otherwise and have it carved as it is served.

Eateries in the Old City like the Karim and other traditional outlets in Basti Nizamuddin also have it on their menu but the item is seldom ordered. For one, you need a group of enthusiastic carnivores to do justice to it, and then there is the cost consideration. For the same price you can try out two kebabs and a korma. Then there are those who swear by the legacy Anglo-Indian Raj — roast leg accompanied by the classic mint sauce. We have had the good fortune of sampling a succulent slice in Kerala at a festive meal and have ever since missed it in Delhi. To be honest, for us, nothing matches the splendour of the Awadhi musallam — draped in thick aromatic sauce-like gravy enriched with nuts with the leg kept intact to justify the name. But one lives and learns.

Recently we were introduced to a galauti raan by our friend Wahid miyan whose love, nay passion, for food is infectious. To cut a long story short, this recipe dispenses with gravy/sauce, the cumbersome and skilful finishing in tandoor is not required either and you can easily cook it at home. We are completely bowled over and feel it deserves to be named alishaan.

HOME