Food talk
Spicy spinach

Greet the winter chill with saag meat masaledar, says Pushpesh Pant

Last month we had an unexpected treat. Indrajit was commissioned by India International Centre to photographically document the legendary GTR a.k.a. the Grand Trunk Road commemorated by Kipling as the ‘River of Life’. We travelled happily along the celebrated highway splurging in dhabas that dot the road.

Partly it was a trip down the memory lane reviving nostalgia of meals partaken decades ago and partly a muted la Golden Quadrangle that is riding roughshod over the old GTR bypassing the bustling towns and sleepy villages.

The menu in the eateries reflects the change. Lassi is scarce. Bottled cola and other cold drinks, including factory-produced mineral water, have emerged rulers of the road as safe beverages. We had to nurse our arched throats till Varanasi where the Pahalwan ka dhaba quenched our thirst with a product that leaves the much-hyped kesar di lassi in Amritsar miles behind and panting.

No pera shera here. Plain and simple, thick as mud, curd topped with rabri and a slice of mishti dahi — a wholesome meal in itself. Karak chai, strong enough to survive the vagaries of the saraki, is more rare. Hardly anyone orders it. Kali daal and kadhai paneer with meat masala are available on the GT-Karnal stretch but the quality even at Murthal is suspect. The nip of early winter was in the air but we missed the old seasonal favourite the saag meat. The long and short is that the moment we returned to Delhi, a pot was put on flame to slow cook saag meat masaledar wishing the GTR a long loving life. The recipe departs from the authentic Punjabi rustic rural delicacy a little including a bit of aromatic spicing that is characteristic of the Awadh region. Needless to add the roadside eateries here seldom serve non-veg fare. Not even the chain of macho Mucchadh Yadav Dhaba forsakes shudh shakahaari. We are sure with the chill setting in as winter advances Panipat and Amritsar will awake to their culinary heritage and delight us once more. Till that happens we rely on the home recipe. Enjoy it with the sigh of satisfaction, ‘If winter comes can saag meat be far behind?’ meant for the historic path that will soon rest in peace. Yes, the old order (food included) changeth, yielding place to new and how. Those in haste with only money to waste whiz past in their air-conditioned chariots.

Saag meat masaledar

Meat (shoulder, leg and chops) 1 kg

Onions (finely sliced) 250 gm

Palak (boiled for 3 minutes

and blended coarsely in a mixie) 1 kg

Garlic ginger paste 3 tsp

Brown cardamoms three

Cloves two to three

Cinnamon 2inch piece

Black peppercorns 1 tsp

Dhania powder 2 tsp

Jeera powder 1 tsp

Garam masala 1 tsp

Degi mirch ½ tsp

Oil 100 ml

Salt to taste (adjust for saltiness of the greens)

Green chillies (deseeded) three

Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan and lightly brown the onions in it, then add the whole spices, stir-fry for a minute. Add the meat and brown it well, stirring continuously. Put in garlic-ginger paste and stir-fry for another two minutes. Now add the powdered spices along with the salt and palak. Mix well and cook covered on low medium flame for about 30 minutes or done to taste. Garnish with green chillies. If in great hurry, use a pressure cooker. But remember, hurry spoils the curry.

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