Food talk
Know your peas and puffs

Makhana matar, a time-saver, does away with onions and garlic, writes Pushpesh Pant

There was a time — before the ubiquitous paneer had displaced all other vegetarian specialties — when makhana aka taal makhana reigned supreme. Taste lingers on of kaju matar makhana enjoyed many moons ago. What rekindled fading memories was the sight of taal makhana making its ritual appearance on the prescribed saatvik thaali during the navaratri. Much to our disappointment it was served as an indifferent kheer that couldn’t find redemption after it had been showered over with dried fruits and resins. But let’s not waste time in complaints — why not share a recipe far more satisfying and exciting.

Makhana are lotus puffs — popped up seeds of the noble flowering plant. Not only are these considered kosher during fasts but are healthy — lighter than air — you can’t consume a quantity that can add up calories. Lightly fried or better still roasted, these are delightfully crunchy and blend well with any other ingredient of your choice. The usual tendency is to enrich the dish needlessly to offer something exotic like adding khoya, dried fruits and all else.

We feel just a handful of tender green peas provides an admirable contrast in colour and texture and lighter the spicing, better the gravy. Time for a confession: the ‘pure veg’ recipe does away with bothersome peeling of onions and garlic and is a great time saver. We were once gifted a yogurt-based gravy sans onion garlic by our neighbour Mrs Gangal and we feel that it works wonders with makhana. If you insist on using cashew nuts, save them for the garnish. And, there is no reason to save this dish up for the navaratri — enjoy whenever you feel like it.

 





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