Bridal Hues
Rich fabric, delicate work & vibrant colours...
City designers are crafting a made-to-measure bridal range 

Anandita Gupta

Sinuous Swarovski swirls, zigzag glitter, shimmer webs, vibrant hues and more. The Indian bride has pushed everything garish out of her wardrobe and is setting the sizzle quotient higher with sensual blouses, regal fabrics, vibrant colour combos and embellishments in sequins, dabka, beads and zardosi. We sizzle with the razzle-dazzle brigade of city’s brides-to-be and come back drenched in shimmering wedding shades.

Sensual Splendour

Bridal wear’s always been about ultra-feminity, but this year, it embraces deep shades of sensuality. And the city designers have put together a bold and beautiful bridal range. Thin Chinese collars, clinging corsets, halter necks and bustiers have replaced traditional short kurti-style blouses. “These can be teamed with lehngas, or one could go in for short kurtis with churi pants,” says Salil Gulati of Gulati-22. An A-line lehnga teamed with a skin-fitted blouses and dupattas is how Gulati describes a perfect bride’s outfit. He is busy crafting flowing crepe and dubion silk dupattas for brides to carry off like a veil.

Banarasi Bling

When it comes to fabrics, regal is the new rage. Avers Reema Sobti, “Banarasi is hot this season and our collection in forest green, maroon, red, rust, golden and wine has a Benarasi touch to it.” Reema will soon be opening up her studio, Sasa Palmate in Sector 22. She has used everything from jamawar and raw silk to crepe-silk and brocade for her range. Chips in Delhi-based Mini Singh, designer for city-based Meena Bazaar, Poshak and Gulatis, “Banarsi richness and royal feel can be seen this season in brocades, jacquards and short-colour silks (double shaded).”

Colours of Celebration

Talk of richness and colour can’t be far behind. On the palette this season is emerald, turquoise, mustard, peaches, leafy greens, ruby, beige, burgundy, wine, strawberry and chocolate. Says Mini Singh, “A mix ‘n’ match of two vibrant colours, say a beige and turquoise or a maroon and chocolate is a stunning idea.” Gulati vouches for a mish-mash of soft, yet striking hues —coral, ash pink, turquoise, burnt orange, peach and yellow.

OTT no more

“The embellishments are heavy, yet not very in-your face. The accent this season is being opulent without being garish,” avers famous couturier Pallavi Jaikishan. Her Bridal Asia collection was a mix of Chinese embroidery, chicken work and delicate pearl embroidery on white and ivory. Closer home, Salil’s playing with sequins, stones in dabka and resham, crystal and Moghul motifs in understated shimmer. Mini’s experimenting with nakshi, dabka and copper sequins for a sublime effect. Reema’s raving about appliqué work, hand-embroidery, sequins, beads, crystal, zardosi, Swarovski and cut work. “Muted shimmer and dull antique work is the flavour of the season,” says Nidhi Sangha of city-based label Blush.

And for our fashion aficionados who’d settle for nothing but exclusive, here’s what Sabyasachi wove at Bridal Asia. The designer’s collection exuded the complexities of Indian heritage and culture, including textiles borrowed heavily from the Mughal gharana and the Avadhi royalty, lehengas, angarkhas, heavy kurtas and his signature style saris flaunting traditional Indian folk motifs.

Now could wedding hues get more varied than this? So, go ahead and take your pick from city designers’ potpourri. And mind you, all this before you head to the usual bridal-wear hubs at Ambala and Delhi.

anandita@tribunemail.com

On a different trip 
Saurabh Malik  

“Le Corbusier obviously wasn’t a visionary architect,” Sandhya remonstrates before placing the newspaper in her lap after carefully folding it.

As councillors ready for a foreign study tour, residents wonder whether contemporary Chandigarh really needs to imbibe alien concepts

“That’s crazy, Ms Sandhya Sharma,” someone protests from the back of the bus finding its way through the swarm of vehicles headed to Sector 17 on a Friday morning. “How can you say that? Some of the new-bred architects, knowing little beyond massive iron gates and gables, have of course been making vague attempts at sounding intellectuals by finding faults with the city. But, we all know the reality”. Adjusting himself in the seat to cushion the bumps, he adds: “Le Corbusier started from scratch, literally, and went on to build the country’s first planned city. Its underlying theme of sun, space and verdure has always been considered a bold experiment in city planning. Despite failed attempts to check traffic menace and corruption of its pristine environs, you just need to travel towards the lake to relive its glory”.

“Oh yes,” Sandhya retorts. “That’s true, undoubtedly. But I still stick to my statement. You know why? Well, Corbusier failed to foresee the designs of so many municipal councillors”.  

Busting into a mirthful laughter, the young bank employee asserts: “Had he been a great futurist, he would have designed city drains the Singapore-Bangkok way. And, he would have made flyovers and underpasses across Chandigarh to accommodate escalating traffic, knowing very well that the authorities would eventually allow flats to accommodate more people than the city was designed to handle!”

Recovering her breath, she adds: That sure would have grounded the councillors. And all the taxpayers’ money to be spent on their trip would have been saved. Some say the expenditure on each councillor is Rs 40,000 and there are over 30 of them.” Sitting next to her on way to inter-state bus terminus, you realise the money could have actually gone into picking up debris and garbage strewn around the city, particularly the rubbish that greets visitors as soon as they enter the city and downtown.

Also, the solution lies, perhaps, not in foreign trips, but in decentralising and decongesting the city meant for fewer people. The transport system, too, needs to be oiled for making it more passenger-friendly and economically viable.

You also become conscious of the fact that the foreign junket is fast becoming the talk of town in a city where you have to pay even for leaving behind your vehicle in a parking lot just because the Municipal Corporation is cash-strapped. As the bus comes to a halt, you only hope the councillors have enough vision to make this trip full and final.

saurabh@tribunemail.com

STEP OUT
Spiderman Sport
Competition climbing on artificial walls is an exciting activity 
Yana Banerjee-Bey

AS you read this, the Asian Indoor Games are underway in Macau, China. To my knowledge, India is being represented in just one discipline – sport climbing. Our team includes three men (Praveen CM of Bangalore, Prashant Allay of Darjeeling and Mathwar Singh of the ITBP) and three women (Vatsala MN of Bangalore, Shanti Devi of Bangalore and Darshani Devi of Imphal). They are stars on the sport climbing circuit in the country and have competed abroad earlier, except for Mathwar. Though the ITBP has had a line-up of superb mountaineers, it is only now beginning to achieve the same standard in sport climbing.

Upcoming contests

* The 2007 National Sport Climbing Competition will be held over November 21-26 at Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi. Participants are selected through zonal competitions.

* The 5th Girivihar Open International Sports Climbing Competition 2008 will be held over January 25-27, 2008 at CBD Belapur, New Bombay. Check www.girivihar.org

Sport climbing is an extreme form of rock climbing that is done both on natural rock and on artificial walls with pre-placed protection (metal bolts driven in, to which one’s safety rope is anchored). The pre-placed protection is necessary because the routes are difficult and climbers can fall. In fact, the fun of sport climbing is to push yourself repeatedly to master routes that are just beyond your ability.

In India, the most popular form of sport climbing is competition climbing. Competitions are held on rock as well as on artificial walls. There are three categories – difficulty, speed and bouldering. Difficulty is the most prestigious. The route is set on the wall by route-setters and participants, kept in isolation, are allowed to observe it for a few minutes. Each then attempts the route. How high and how fast you climb determines your final placing. In the speed competition, pairs of climbers race against each other and the clock. The speed category was introduced in our national climbing championship in 2003, which I reported for The Tribune(www.tribuneindia.com/ 2003/20031119/sports.htm#9). Bouldering is yet to be included in the nationals but sport climbing clubs around the country have included it in their open competitions.

Those of you who might want to do sport climbing need to join a group of sport climbers and learn from them. However, for competition climbing you need a wall. While many people build small ones in their homes for practice, to reach a decent level you need a proper wall (at least 12 metres high). There is no wall available in and around Chandigarh – there is a wall in MCMDAV College but it is not open to the public. For those who live in or near Delhi, the wall at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation is the best of several in the city.

Over the past decade, Bangalore, Imphal and Darjeeling have been producing the country’s best sport climbers because decent walls were built in these places. Because of the infrastructure, a culture of training, practice, diet and fitness took root, with the Bangaloreans setting the best example.

The first time India participated in an international competition was in 1991 (World Cup, Tokyo). Our first international win came when Vatsala won silver medals in both difficulty and speed in the 2003 World Cup in France. Last year, Prashant won a bronze in an Asian championship in Hong Kong, competing against a strong field.

In 2004, we hosted an international meet – the Asia Cup – at the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in Uttarkashi, which has a 15.5-metre wall.

Competitions are enormously exciting and the younger you start, the better you will be because sport climbing requires strength and agility in equal measure. My book, Adventure Sports, includes a comprehensive guide to starting sport climbing with details on equipment, fitness, exercise and technique. Enjoy!

(This column appears fortnightly)

The writer has authored India’s first handbook of adventure sports and is available at y.bey@excite.com

Sakharam once again
Umesh Kant set to present the play in a less bold & more artistic manner 
Parbina Rashid

WAY back in 1998, Sakharam Binder created history when the entry pass came with the warning — Children under 18 are not allowed. Four years later, when it was staged at Tagore Theatre-18 during the National Theatre Festival, the press once again labelled it ‘bold’. Though the time had changed, Sakharam’s abusive language and his crude way of forcing himself upon Lakshmi made us viewers a little uncomfortable.

Many shows of Sakharam Binder have happened since then, and it always received more or less similar reviews. It pains Umesh Kant, its director, the most.

“Vijay Tendulkar had painted the scenes so beautifully and what unravels on stage is nothing but artistic. The language is crude, yes. But then, don’t families sit together and watch Bollywood flicks that portray bedroom scenes with graphic details. Or maybe it is just that when it comes to theatre, our North Indian audiences are still prudent,” says Umesh.

Pained though he is, Umesh now plans to tone it down a bit. “No, I am not going to compromise with the script or dialogues, but will play with light and music so that the ‘bold’ scenes do not come out as bold on stage,” he corrects us even before we have this opportunity to ask him how. So Umesh is once again taking up his most cherished project, this time for Kolkata Theatre Festival. “Kolkata audience is open-minded. Sakharam’s crudeness won’t be too shocking for them,” he says. Umesh is now going to have an audition for the two female leads Lakshmi and Champa. “I am looking for fresh faces. The accent too is important, for the character of Champa is a Marathi girl,” says Umesh.

For the uninitiated, Sakharam is a character who abhors women and it comes through the way he holds a woman’s body, uses it and then discards it. But then goodness is a basic human quality and no matter how harsh the circumstances, there is a path, which leads to reformation and Sakharam does ultimately surrender to goodness.

Auditions on Sunday at Tender Heart School-33 from 12-3 p.m.

parbina@tribuenmail.com

Telly Tales will be back next week

Cool Stuff
Beverages
Thirst Quenchers

PepsiCo has launched 19 festive packs for Diwali. The packs are an assortment of Pepsi, 7UP, Mirinda, Mountain Dew, Tropicana juice and Slice. They are priced between Rs 60 and Rs 360. Two attractive Kandeel packs are priced at Rs 130 and Rs 150; the rich gift packs cost Rs 80 and Rs 120. The company plans to share a smile on this Diwali with Children Rights and You. It will conduct a contest for its employees wherein they will sell the gift packs to their family members, friends and associates. From every pack sold Rs 2 will be contributed to CRY. So, here’s your chance to both quench your thirst and also contribute for a noble cause.

Food
Healthy & Delicious

With festive times here, make children around you feel good. Kellogg’s has launched special Kellogg’s Diwali gift packs that lets the kids enjoy their favourite chocolaty taste without their parents worrying about their health. Available in two offerings, one is priced at Rs 245 containing Kellogg’s Chocos 375 gm, Chocos Toffee 375 gm and a set of two penguin rollers free. The other is priced at Rs 135 containing Kellogg’s Chocos 125 gm, Chocos Smacks 130 gm and Chocos Toffee 135 gm. Known for its flagship Kellogg’s Corn Flakes in India, Kellogg’s also includes Kellogg’s Wheat Flakes, two variants of Kellogg’s Just Right Muesli and the K Pak range in three variants, available in Rs 10 pouches.

Fashion 
Cool Miss

Miss Players presents an urban collection this Autumn-Winter. The range is all about flattering styles, seductive colours and daring silhouettes. The range features fitted low-waist jeans to chic trench coats and fashionable formals to stylish accessories. Crafted with new-age fabrics like lycra, the styling is international. The designs rendered in warm colours like fuchsias, browns and reds exude the spirit of a fashionable winter. The range has a wider offering of denims for all usage and occasions, fashionable outerwear including jackets, sweaters and business suits. It also includes fashion accessories like belts, berets and visor caps and clutch bags and wallets to complete the look. 

Apparel
Casual & Chic

Uni Style Image introduces its fall winter collection’ 07-08 that encompasses a unique blend of comfort, attitude, and functional designs. The f is categorised into USI Pure, USI University, USI Rugby and the USI Enviro which translates creativity of the underprivileged to utilize their skills in various product developments. It comprises of men’s and women’s tee, polo’s, sweatshirts, pullovers, jackets, winter T-shirts, tracks, lowers, overcoats and accessories like belts, caps and bags etc. the eco friendly range is an initiative taken for spreading awareness on recycling. The price of the collection ranges from Rs 645 to Rs 1,495 only. Available at all USI outlets. —TNS 

Objects of Desire 
A peek at this season’s wedding jewellery that promises to induce a wow-she-looks-like-a-goddess reaction 
Anandita Gupta


Jewel Talk 

* Jewellery should coordinate with the wedding outfit, so shop for the outfit first.

* For those who don’t want to blow money on gold and diamond jewellery go in for artificial costume jewellery.

* Shopping your gold from Dubai, Singapore and Malaysia is relatively cheaper due to low craftsmanship costs.

* Get your expensive pieces valued and insured.

* Choose jewellery in sync with your body type. Go in for sleek jewellery if you are thin.

* Don’t wear a beautiful piece of jewellery highlighting a body part you are conscious about.

Draped in shimmering bridals, she’s being whisked (courtesy a plethora of attendant friends and cousins) past a thousand adoring guests. It’s finally her D-Day, the da da dum dum moment when nothing matches this bride’s finery as she enters the wedding mandap and nothing outshines the sparkle in her dulha’s eye, except her enticing jewellery, that is! Jewellery that echoes the bride’s intrinsic sensuality — natkhat jhumkas dancing to her every move, a traditional nath that sparkles on that blush-tinted cheek bone, exquisite maang-tika adorning her forehead, a regal rani haar embellishing her neck, intricately carved kangans jingling in her hands and rings flashing on her delicate fingers.

Jewellery is an inseparable part of any wedding, it is an emblem of every bride’s martial status, however, picking up the right jewels can be tough, especially if you know zilch about jewellery. You sure have your mom to help you, but with the mind-boggling variety around, she could be as foxed as you. To make your OTT bling buying stress-free and fun, we got the experts to spell the hottest jewellery trends this season.

Avers sales officer Tanishq-17 Vandana Vaish, “ There are some brides-to-be who are getting allergic to garish gold, but still the metal remains the shaadi-season’s best bet.” Ruling at the store is a combination of 18 carat diamonds and precious stones set in pure gold (Rs 2 lakh to 20 lakh) and 22 carat kundan uncut diamond Polki sets (Rs 60,000- 4 lakh). The brides are also vouching in for coordinated bangles and tikkas.

“Two-toned gold, a combination of yellow and white gold is perfect for engagement and cocktail parties. Champagne and pink diamonds are now in vogue,” says Anmol Sandhu of A Jewels. As for cuts, round brilliant cuts, baguettes, heart-shaped cuts and marques are in. “Victorian designs are not drawing many this season,” he adds.

As for hot hues of the season, it is aquamarine, tourmouline, turquoise, rubies, emerald, garnet, agate and blue topaz. Rings studded with huge gems and a range of striking stones with a touch of diamond and gold are also in. Distinctive bracelets that have sequined coloured stones and diamonds on them are the other items to look out for. Informs business development manager Dwarkas-NAC Ntitin Thakkar, “Sizzling white look rules this season. So we are selling more of diamonds and white gold. Internationally, gold painted in pink and black continues to be fashionable.”

And brides forget jhumkas. Long chandelier earrings and danglers are in vogue and are here to stay. Likewise, chokers have made way for hanging neckpieces like double malas festooned with designer brooches. Round gold bangles, earlier an integral part of wedding attire, too have gone contemporary in square and octagonal shapes. So go ahead and splurge!

Forget cut, carat, clarity & design. Costume jewellery
is sizzling this season

Anandita Gupta

Your mommie dear’s been busy stashing the family locker since you were a toddler. Your granny’s given her tough competition by keeping aside the chunkiest of her gold sets for your shaadi. Not to forget your married cousin, who calls to check if she should pick some baubles for your wedding, each time she visits a jewellery expo. Net result — the family locker lies sparkling with exquisite baubles and priceless antique jewels waiting to be plundered. And yet, now that you are hitched (and all set for the wedding wows), the locker’s loot doesn’t tempt you enough. The jewellery may be a prized possession with everyone from your par-daadi to mom, but it doesn’t get your lips rounded in a wow.

Well, if you are a bride-to-be trapped in a similar situation, then you’re not alone. Ironic though it may seem, most of us girls can’t decide what kind of jewellery to pick for the D-Day. Even if one doesn’t really like the family collectables and decides to pick contemporary stuff from the market, the choice is not easy. Should one be sold on old-fashioned gold? Look white-hot in exorbitantly expensive sparkling diamonds? Or go in for regal, yet outfit specific kundan or coloured stone-jewellery? So, what do all those divas do, who want to dazzle without spending lakhs? Go in for costume jewellery, we advice.

Most of our highbrow jewellery aficionados may snort at the suggestion, but the fact remains that costume jewellery has indeed come of age. And while the swish set of super-league Punjabis were busy debating on whether to go for diamonds or Polkis, this jewellery crept in and invaded their jewellery boxes. We peep into their jewellery boxes to catch a glimpse of the fabulous world of fantasy that lies inside.

Take it with a pinch of salt if you like, but these pieces can fuel the fancy, if not envy, of any jewellery aficionado. Nah, these are no seductive solitaires or diamond-necklaces worth a thousand robbery flicks. Rather, diamond-look-alike figniti (minute zircons) set in silver-copper alloys along with pearls and coloured stones of varying quality. So while our stone-obsessed brides would have to blow big bucks (some cool lakhs) on a diamond set, a figniti set can be grabbed for a few thousands. Also, hot are beautiful broaches in diamond-look-alike Korean stones. These can be worn as chunky neckpieces dangling in sleek chains.

Fancy rani haars, chokers, baju bandhs, kadas and rings, in polki? Well, with costume polki jewellery around, you don’t need to dish out some 15 lakhs for all this. All you’ve got to do is invest Rs 1,200-10,000 and grab this chunky stuff. Set in metal polish with gold plating, these pieces can be mistaken for the real. And if you’ve always eyed your nani’s kundan set (worth Rs 8 to 9 lakh), then its replicas too are available in costume jewellery (Rs 3,000-8,000). The only difference being the coloured stones used in the latter are glass stones (or semi-precious, depending on the price range) as against the precious stones used in the real thing.

Similarly, you could lay your hands on Victorian costume jewellery. Informs Raman from Jewels-11, “While the real Victorian (in lakhs) baubles boast of diamonds set in gold that is rodium-polished, the Victorian costume jewellery (in thousands) has glass stones and zircons set in gold-polished copper and silver.” Avers jewellery-lover Shifali Sabbarwal from Mohali, “Costume jewellery is fun, I love coloured stones like feroza, ruby, emerald, amethyst, topaz and black onax that are used in it.”

So friends, here we’ve got all the razzle-dazzle minus the purse pangs. What are you waiting for? Go ahead and splurge. And if dishing out even a few thousand hurts, check out Bittu Bangles-22, Chotu Motu-22, Jewels-11, Siah-20-Pkl, Trendz-37 and also get in touch with the local beauticians for renting costume jewellery. 

Suit Yourself 
The traditional salwar kameez is still your best bet at your best friend’s wedding! 
Aman Minhas

THE wedding bells are ringing for your best friend or sister. The thought of what to wear on that occasion has crossed your mind several times. And before you end up buying what was probably last year’s fashion, let us tell you what is the rage this season. Going by fashion stores in the city, the latest is – good ol’ salwar kameez..

The Works…

Ethnic is in. Stunning salwar kameez with neat thread work have started doing the rounds with the daunting gota patti and glittering zari. Beaming kundans in combination with zardosi and Badla work is the ones that you should look out for. Stones and heavy glittering sequin work are added, so none of the embroidery misses your eye. The new trends bring to you appliqué work of velvet patches and antique work to give that tanned and toned down, yet the regal look. Jhalak work in gota patti that is made like an all over jaal for a rich and opulent look and a new zari vasket that has many kundans beaming with aari work are for the grab.

Colour me Wild

The colours are unlimited— pinks, greens, maroons, reds, turquoise or latest mustard are a treat to the eye. If monochrome is not your style, then there are beautiful combinations of subtle and bright colours. A blend of beige and turquoise or chocolate and maroon or mustard and green — the result is simply eye catching.

Tailoring Trivia

Flaunt your toned up body in that figure hugging salwar-kameez. Enchant with the flares of eight to ten kalis or go royal in the latest empire waist. Play a little with the length, wear a cut above the knees and look dainty or add to your height with a slightly long one. To show-off that expensive jewellery set, get a deep neckline or bare your shoulders with corset or simply go for the spaghetti strap. If you don’t fancy all these, then go for elegant and stylish matka necks. You can experiment with Patiala salwar depending on the material. Thick crepes and silks fall well in pataila salwar’s. Dupian or Chinese raw silk is considered best suited for such flared salwars.

Odhni Mix

Astonishing are the over 5kg trailing dupattas that have an elaborate mix of sparkling and shimmering work on them. An all over jaal with beaming gotta patti and even kundans, carefully interspersed with sequins to highlight the work, laced with tissue borders, and the double and triple colours for that extra radiance. Not to forget the golden tassels or designer pompoms that are hung to give it a little bit of dramatic effect.

Material Maze

It actually is a maze! As the shopkeeper opens one material after another, you conclude how wrong you were to think that selecting the right work was your main problem. Have your silk and wear it too, as now nothing is barred. Short silk, a new arrival, reflects two colours while the old jaamdani banarsi silk provides base for all works and gives a grand look.

Crepes have been running for long now for being high on wearability and low on maintenance. Forgotten the jamawar silk that was once spotted in your mother’s wardrobe? That too has made a comeback in an improved version. Net was big a couple of years back for lehngas. Now salwar kameez will too flaunt it too. But net is restricted only to dupattas. Here is a piece of advice — be patient as you go through the piles of materials. You will find the ensemble of your dreams. Happy shopping.

Seize It

Keeping pace with the fashion capitals, local designers are spinning traditional and trendy wear. Take a dig at... Poshak–17, Shingaar–11, Uphaar–17, Kala Emporium–11, Meena Bazaar-17,

Gulati’s-22, Chabra 555, CTC Plaza, Babi–8, Shyam Mall-34.

lifestyletribune@gmail.com





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