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The world heritage resort of Kandy in Sri Lanka comes alive with pomp and pageantry as tourists throng this hill town to pay homage to the Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha enshrined in a temple here, writes Anurag Yadav
Of all the extravagant religious celebrations around the world, a unique festival in the island country of Sri Lanka stands out for its amazing pageantry. This spectacle happens every year during the full-moon night towards end of August at the golden-roofed Temple of the Tooth (Dalada Maligawa), at Kandy — the UNESCO declared world heritage hill resort of Sri Lanka. The 10-day festival is held to honour the sacred tooth of Lord Buddha enshrined in the temple. Known as the Esala Perahera (full moon night’s procession), the festival has become an integral part of life in Sri Lanka and attracts visitors from around the world. Imagine the sheer surge of a pulsating rhythm of thousands of drummers inspiring dancers to ecstatically perform as if in a trance. The ceremony itself is an energetic display of pomp and vigour complete with men dressed as warriors and dancers cracking ceremonial whips and over 100 elephants adorned in elaborately embroidered cloaks. The main elephant called Maligawa is decorated from trunk to toe and carries a huge replica of the casket containing the danta dhatu (sacred tooth). Dancers and musicians follow the magnificently caparisoned pachyderms. The drummers play martial music on a variety of drums like dawulas, tammettamas and berayas while others blow the horanawes or flutes. Indian connection
There is a historical Indian connection with the celebration. The Tooth Relic was brought to the island by princess Hemamala of Kalinga (Orissa) during the reign of Kirti Sri Meghavarna (352-377). The Sinhalese king received the relic with great reverence and kept it in a shrine within the royal palace. He decreed that an annual festival (Esala Perahera) be held in its honour. The stories surrounding the Tooth Relic are the stuff of legends. It was reportedly removed from Lord Buddha’s funeral pyre following his cremation in 543 BC. The tribe of Mallas, in whose territory Buddha died, initially sought to keep all the relics. But when other regions started demanding their share, a Hindu priest arranged for the remains to be given to various kingdoms. Thus Buddha’s sacred remains were distributed to local rulers and the Tooth Relic went to Sri Lanka. Every year during the month of August elaborate preparations are made prior to the commencement of the nightly procession with elephants being brightly decorated in rich finery and fairy lights. The sight is spectacular with brightly-lit elephants moving in unison. The Chief Monk of the Temple of the Tooth and other participants wear the traditional Kandy court dress. The Chief Monk is attended by lance bearers, sunshade bearers and temple headmen. Tourists, devotees and curious onlookers have a ringside view of the procession. Main attraction The lush green hill town of Kandy is a couple of hours drive from Colombo and has a quadrangular artificial lake. However, the Temple of the Tooth built on a base of granite is the main attraction. For those who come to attend the festival, Kandy offers some of the finest hotels in the country. Though a year-round destination, it is chockfull with tourists during the 10-day Esala Perahera which falls in July and August. It has about a dozen high-end hotels that bring alive the culture and hospitality of the island state. Kandy is an architectural delight with buildings like the Royal Palace Complex — consisting of the King and Queen’s palaces, Audience Hall, Royal Summer House and Royal Bathhouse. Heritage hotels, dated buildings and the lake that is a serene reflection of the temple’s ambience are an attraction for the footloose. The city boasts of beautiful Botanical Gardens, a giant Buddha sitting atop a hill, panoramic views, waterfalls and elephants galore. But it is the spectacular Esala Perahera that is the hallmark of the hill resort. A tourist carries the experience of the festivities for a lifetime. A fusion of piety, colour, culture, dance, music and pageantry, it is an event that well deserves its reputation as one of Asia’s, if not the world’s, truly remarkable experiences. — NF
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