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The Bihari kebab outshines any other kebab... be it tundewale or kakori, says Pushpesh Pant
We were recently chastened and deliciously corrected by a friend who brought home to us the exotic Bihari kebab. Packed almost carelessly on a bed of old newspaper pages and a recycled cardboard box the poor thing had endured a nightlong train journey in 3-tier AC compartment and an hour-long bumpy ride in an auto but all these travails had failed to pale its seductive power. Tasted cold, it teased the jaded palate with alluring aromas; after a gentle heat treatment it revived to dazzle. We can affirm without the slightest hesitation that this delicacy outshines any other galouti- tundewale or kakori. Where were you hiding so long beloved friend? Come to think of it, Chef Shams of Siddharth in the Capital had not so long ago delighted us with his rendering of this recipe but to tell you the truth the home-made version left its five star cousin more than a length behind. Wahid Miyan is the friend whose debt must be acknowledged. Not only did he part with the family recipe but also refreshed our memory of the great Sher Shah Suri, the undisputed Emperor of India, father of the Grand Trunk Road, who reigned after Babur. It is not surprising that the Bihari of Afghan descent patronised talented chefs who could more than match the skills of kitchen-brigade in Delhi. To honour his memory in a fitting manner the Paatra restaurant has renamed the kebab Shershahi. Even if you can’t reach Sasaram where the beautiful mausoleum to this great man stands, you can try your hand at this noble kebab and commemorate in style.
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Who
said Bihari cuisine is limited to chokha-litti, sattu-makuni
and chiwra-dahi? There are some non-Biharis who have tasted
unusual desserts like sakarkand ki kheer but most find it easy
to dismiss snootily the culinary repertoire of the state that spawned
the first empire on the sub-continent.
