Food talk
New wine in new bottle

Nimbu gosht lightens the bhuna gosht recipe and renders it more acceptable, says Pushpesh Pant

These are hard times for old-fashioned food lovers like yours truly. It is not politically correct to serve or even consume delicacies that are considered even mildly hazardous for good health. Red meats are out and chicken is in. Had it not been the scare created by the deadly bird flu, the poor lamb would have been forgotten, good and proper by now.

Fun has gone out of our lives since the kids at home have started yelling cholesterol every time they see eggs done sunny side up along with those mouthwatering bacon rashers and well-buttered toasts. It requires immense and extraordinary courage, dear readers, to insist that imbibing our favourite fat-laden recipes—at least once in a blue moon—is akin to unfettered enjoyment of fundamental rights.

Tala gosht falls squarely in this ‘usually forbidden’ category. Purloined from a Hyderabadi friend’s collection, it has many things to commend itself. It is simplicity incarnate—easy to prepare, delightfully different and spiced subtly but distinctively—a truly elegant dish.

What is ironical is that we are seldom restricted from ordering bhuna gosht at the India International Centre where an exceptional version is served that has far more roghan floating on top than the tala maal is ever burdened with. We feel the youngsters are lulled into false security, reassured by the literal translation of bhuna that is roasted. But then as the adage has it where there is a will there is a way.

At long last we have succeeded in lightening the recipe and rendering it more acceptable. This is not the usual case of packaging old wine in new bottles—we must, while sharing this recipe with our readers, acknowledge our debt to redoubtable Prof Sahni, sometime of Khalsa College, Delhi University, for showing us the way.

Chef’s corner

Ingredients

Meat (with bones or boneless)) 1 kg

Ginger paste 1 tbsp

Garlic paste 1 tsp

Red chilly powder 1-1/2 tsp

Turmeric powder 1/2 tsp

All spice ( kababachini) powder 1 tsp

Juice of two lemons (seedless kagazi nimbu)

Peppercorns (coarsely pounded) 1 tsp

Oil 3/4 cup

Salt to taste

A sprig of fresh coriander for garnish

Method

Cut the meat into bite-sized pieces. Prepare the marinade by mixing ginger and garlic pastes and the lemon juice along with red chilly, all spice and turmeric powders. Add salt and pounded peppercorns to this mixture. Place the meat pieces in this marinade and keep aside for at least one and a half hour. Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan and first fry the meat on high heat to sear and seal the juices in, then reduce heat and cook covered for about 20 minutes or till the meat is tender to your taste. Sprinkle a little water while frying, to prevent sticking to the bottom of the pan or burning. Garnish with hara dhaniya and get ready to welcome the pre-monsoon showers. After all rainy season is when tala bhuna is permitted—be it pakore or khatta talwan nimbu gosht.





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