Food talk
A one-dish feast
The Kerala special biryani is beautiful to look at and can do without fancy accompaniments or garnishes, says Pushpesh Pant

There was a time when biryani was our most beloved delicacy—a convenient one-dish feast that was nourishing, flavourful and romantically exotic at the same time. Disillusionment followed swiftly in the footsteps of enchantment (or infatuation). We discovered that at most outlets, including the much-hyped five star eateries, what was passed off as biryani was a hastily made concoction that owed its lackluster existence more to the frying pan than to a deg basking in the glow of dum.

Don’t we all know that a plateful of long-grained golden sela, blended with spicy meat curry, sprinkled with a few drops of iitr do not make a biryani? Some cooks are even bold enough to claim that their fake product is the authentic Hyderabadi culinary classic. Only rarely have we come across the real Mc Coy. Preparing a mutton biryani is a laborious task—there are no short cuts.

A qorma or yakhnai pulav may have its own attraction but neither is a biryani. Don’t lose heart—if you can do without the red meat you can enjoy a biryani-inspired delicacy that can be habit forming. Good friend Mahavir introduced us to a Malabari master chef who specialises in delectable take-away fare who treated us recently to a prawn biryani—he calls it chemeen pulav but we shall let that pass.

For once, we thought some worthy rival has at least for once surpassed Miyan Farouk in tantalising innovation. Farouk insists that to qualify as biryani the rice has to be biriyan—fried in original Persian. Fry it a little by all means if you wish to assert purist snobbery; we on our part are quite happy with the fishy Kerala special as it comes. It is beautiful to look at and can do without fancy accompaniments or garnishes. If you are not very partial to southern flavours, the recipe can easily be adapted to local palate preferences by substituting the sambar masala with garam masala and tamarind with tomatoes.

Chef’s corner

Ingredients

Prawns (shelled and de-veined) 250 gm

Dried prawns 250 gm

Oil 4 tbsp

Onions (sliced) 150 gm

Ginger (crushed) 1 inch piece

Garlic cloves, crushed 10

Green chillies (slit) 10

Coconut milk (thick) 1/2 cup

Coconut milk (thin) 1 cup

Tamarind extract 3 tbsp

Sambhar masala 3 tbsp

Salt to taste

Method

Mix the dried and fresh prawns along with salt and keep aside for 30 minutes. Boil rice in salted water till 9/10th done. Keep aside. Heat the oil in a pan, add onions, ginger and garlic and stir-fry on low heat till golden brown, stirring continuously to ensure that it does not stick to the pan and burn. Return the onion mixture to the pan along with the prawns and green chillies, stir-fry for 3-4 minutes. Blend the sambhar masala with the thin coconut milk and put it in a pan with prawns to boil. Stir in the tamarind extract and mix well. Cook for about 10 minutes more. Remove prawns from gravy and thicken the gravy by boiling it briskly. Line a pan lightly with butter/oil, then put a layer of rice, then add the reserved prawns, top with rice and finish with prawns. Pour the thick gravy, cover and place on a pre-heated tawa for about five minutes. Serve hot with rice.





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