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The introduction of jutis was a fashion revolution brought into India during the Mughal era. During the earlier epochs there were of course cloth jutis , but they had not nothing to do with fashion. Those were the days when leather was supposed to be unclean and as such one had to wear cloth shoes. With the advent of leather jutis from Persia, we began the era of jutis as a luxury. The jutis in its earlier form during the Mughal days was known as kafsh. One can say that they were the forerunners of the modern high-heeled shoes. As the leather jutis spread through the length and breadth of India, each cultural group like the Rajasthanis, Hyderabadis and Maharastrians began to have their own version of jutis. The fabulous nawabi culture of Lucknow had jutis known as augli, which was delicately embroidered with silver and gold embroidery. In the princely state of Gwalior , the maharajas popularised velvet jutis covered with seed pearls. For the most decorated of jutis, even today one has to obtain the treasures from Pakistan, which has as many as 60 varieties of the magnificent jutis. The traditional jutis were mainly from Rajasthan and the really good ones have embroidery of coloured wool thread and go well with saris as well as salwar suits. They are also suitable for jeans or trousers and if you have to walk around a lot in the course of work, there is no footwear to beat the jutis. But in the last 20 years the jutis has left Indian shores and are now part of the international fashion scene. They have been sort of reinvented and range from leather ones with silk straps to soft silk ones which go with designer achkans. In these footwears of the rural /royal India, the fashion designers found a unique blend of simplicity and dignity. Designers and models alike have donned them with capris, saris, trousers, and the traditional salwar suit. Today’s jutis are part of the Indian sleek look, which is so happening right now. Jutis can be of two types, the slightly upturned ones which are joined by a band from toe to mid-foot, and the other type that are round at the toe. Most jutis have floral, fish or even graphic motifs to highlight them. However, today’s slip-on jutis in both the branded and non-branded circuit are a mix of Indian colours like bright oranges, blues, red and greens, with sequin work and zari embroidery to highlight them. We have now even modern slip- on version of jutis known popularly as mules. Camel-leather jutis are still the softest and most comfortable of the lot. All the paraphernalia of
the glittering fashion world like seed pearls, sequins and mirrors
have taken their grip on the jutis. — MF
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