Ideal for a quiet holiday

If you haven’t seen a trillion stars in the sky, relaxed your eyes on verdant scenery, heard the cry of the seagull or been with your thoughts for a while, Devbagh island on the Karnataka coast is the place to visit, writes Tanushree Podder

Karwar, the picturesque port town in Uttara Kannada district on the Karnataka coast, traces its history to the time of Arab traders. Karwar is the place that inspired RabindranathTagore to pen his first drama. With gentle waves, silver sand, a calm and peaceful ambience, Karar has all the makings of a perfect holiday destination.

Devbagh is a perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life One of the four islands around Devbagh
JOY OF SOLITUDE: Devbagh is a perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life ISLANDS IN THE STREAM: One of the four islands around Devbagh — Photos by the writer

The captivating landscape is ringed with rugged hill ranges, thick woods, mysterious deep valleys and verdant scenery. The area immediately to the south is very picturesque since the foothills of the Western Ghats tumble right up to the coast, forming headlands that are separated by sweeping sandy bays.`A0

The Karwar bay, apart from its scenic beauty, also boasts of an excellent harbour, which is fit for use during all seasons. The coast, unbroken by deep bays or wide-mouthed estuaries, retains the beauty of an unexplored zone. It has a chain of five islands protecting it from storms.

Karwar is the right place for those who want a quiet holiday. Karwar’s only public beach (recently named Tagore Beach) is a vast stretch of sand for several kilometres. To add variety to the view is a tall lighthouse, which makes a perfect background for watching the sunset. About a couple of hours away is the Kaiga nuclear power station which is set between the sea on the one side and hills on the other. The surrounding hills are a paradise for nature lovers. Not many people are aware of the beauteous beaches of this small town on the Arabian Sea coast.

In fact, Karwar is the perfect place to base oneself while exploring nearby areas. There are several interesting places like Devbagh within striking distance.

Devbagh — the name literally means the garden of gods. An apt name for the little haven situated amidst the frolicking waves of the Arabian Sea. The gentle whispering of the swaying casuarinas, the frothy waves of the sea and miles of golden sands all add up to the romantic appeal of this island. When Rabindranath Tagore was just 22 years old, he had stayed with his brother Satyendranath Tagore, who was posted as district judge in Karwar. On a moonlit night, he once set out on a rowing boat, crossing the confluence of the Kali river with the sea. One of his poems, Prakritir Pratishodh, about this place, is replete with expressions about its beauty.

The Devbagh island can be reached through a motorboat from the mainland and lies close to the meeting point of the Kali and Arabian Sea. From the gentle rolling waves of the river, to the vibrant waves of the sea, the transition is smooth and uneventful. Like a page from the picture book, the island looms up jolting one out of one’s reverie. It is an ideal spot for honeymooners and a perfect getaway for stressed city dwellers.

We reached Devbagh just as the sun was setting into the sea. The globe of orange hue perched precariously over the azure waters, forming a perfect picture to welcome journey-weary bones.

The Jungle Lodges and Resorts run an idyllic resort on the island.

Checking into a log hut standing on stilts in the verdant surroundings, one felt rejuvenated and refreshed. Any traces of tiredness that were left vanished as one occupied the hammock strung between two casuarinas and breathed in the sweet and pure air coming straight from the sea. The air had never smelled so good.

As the sun decided to call it a day, it seemed the ideal time to take a walk on the quiet beach. The sights were unforgettable: the last glimmer of orange glow across the water in the horizon; the rhythmic roar of the waves; hundreds of crabs peeping shyly out of holes; and bright, twinkling lights of ships on the sea.

Dinnertime called for feasting on freshly caught fish and rice — a preparation that couldn’t have been better. It wasn’t a wonder that the sleep that followed was a refreshing one.

The next morning, eager to catch the first rays of the sun, one rushed out early, just in time to watch the fishermen hauling up their catch. Hordes of mackerels, pomfrets and some other varieties with a few stray prawns lay in large nets.

Four tiny islands ring the Devbagh island — Kumaragarh, Oyster-rock, Anjudeep and Sanyasi. Interesting legends abound about the last island. It is said that in ancient times, a sage sought refuge on this island for penance, hence the name. The Oyster-rock, incidentally, has one of the oldest lighthouses in the area.

If you haven’t seen trillion stars in the sky, breathed ozone-laden air, relaxed your eyes on verdant scenery, heard the cry of the seagull or been with your thoughts for a while, Devbagh is the place to visit.

Fact file

Reaching there

By road
Karwar is well connected by road to Goa, Belgaum, Hubli-Dharwar, Mangalore, Bangalore and Mysore. The Karnataka state buses as well as several luxury buses run by private operators offer fast and efficient transportation.

By rail
Karwar is a main station on the Konkan Railway so both express and passenger trains stop here.

Distances
Dabolim (Goa)- Karwar – 100 km

Mumbai – Karwar – 500 km

Bangalore – Karwar – 520 km

Staying there

Park yourself in the Devbagh resort run by the Jungle Lodges. Tucked away in the island, surrounded by casuarina trees, the tree- house-like rooms are the ultimate paradise for nature lovers. For Rs 1900 per person/night, you will get to have all meals, and local sightseeing. (Cost of water sports and snorkelling not included in the tariff.)

Best season
The best time to visit Karwar is between March and June or October and November. The rest of the year is better avoided since monsoon happens to be overactive in this region.

Things to do
For a modest fee, you could accompany the fishermen on a two–man dugout and try your hand at netting the fish.

Hop across to Goa which is just 8 km away from Karwar.

Drive over to the Kali Wilderness Resort at Dandeli (53 km) to do some river rafting, canyoning or trekking.

Visit the ancient Mahabaleshwara Temple in Gokarna that is considered one of India’s oldest and most sacred shrines.

The Om beach at Gokarna, shaped like the Hindu sacred symbol Om, is also worth visiting.

 

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