SEOUL
Making capital of things ethnic & modern

South Korea, with its progressive yet traditional ways, serves as a model for developing countries. Anand & Madhura Katti visit Seoul, the political and cultural capital of the country

The Seoul skyline as seen from a mall.
TOUCHING NEW HEIGHTS: The Seoul skyline as seen from a mall. Photo by the writers

Barren trees with newly blossoming pinkish white cherry flowers on the busy streets of capital Seoul welcomed us to ‘the land of morning calm’, ‘the country of courtesy’, ‘the home of taekwondo’ or to South Korea during spring.

Korea celebrates its Independence Day on August 15 when festivity takes place to mark its liberation from Japan in 1945. Sadly, it also commemorates the time when the country was divided in two to form democratic South Korea and communist North Korea.

Modern-day South Korea is a nation that has rebuilt itself from the devastation of war and has achieved an economic miracle in just 40 years, serving today as a model for many developing countries.

Seoul to us seemed like a western nation with an Asian conscience. The city has modern buildings, big malls, people carrying and using latest gadgets at all levels. Closer interaction with our guide, driver, people at shops and other places of our visit revealed a traditional mindset that is hidden within the modern outlook. But the younger generation seemed more inclined towards western culture, a trend that is considered fashionable in most developing countries. Korea also caters hugely to the western market through its electronic giants like Samsung and LG alongside Japanese products.

A majestic hall within the palace complex
ROYAL CHARM: A majestic hall within the palace complex

Seoul is the financial, political, commercial, recreational, educational and cultural centre of Korea. It has been the capital since 1394 when the Choson Dynasty ruled the country and therefore has many historical monuments like the four major palaces, 10-mile city wall, royal ancestral shrines and many other architectural relics. Since the 1988 Seoul Olympics, the country has continued to modernise at a rapid pace.

Kyongbokkung Palace

This is a huge 40-acre complex built in 1394 during the Choson Dynasty. It is home to the largest and most impressive throne room and audience hall, which is a spacious two-storeyed pavilion overlooking a picturesque man-made pond and was supposed to be the feasting hall for gatherings of royal ministers and diplomats.

Puyo and Kongju are old capital cities of the Paekche Kingdom. Preserving many cultural relics, it is well worth a trip.

The Blue House, the presidential house nearby, on the way back looked beautiful with 500 blue tiles on the roof and with a backdrop of the mountain. The clean street had beautiful flowers in pots.

Itaewon is one of the most unique and ethnically mixed areas in Seoul. Many foreign travellers visit this area for shopping, food, and nightlife. Tourists can shop in the afternoon, enjoy a relaxing dinner, and then hit the club scene. Some clubbers choose to stay out all night and take the first subway home in the morning, while others take advantage of the nearby lodging facilities and hotels.

Nanta performance

A play on cooking! We had exclaimed, thinking of another cookery lesson a la television shows. But we were engrossed like all others in the hall, while watching the Nanta performance. The performers wore hats meant for chefs but their cooking act was hilarious and, at times, melodious, with cutlery and crockery turning into musical instruments. How can they finish their wedding menu cooking on time then? They invite audience to help out. From the moment the cast comes onstage, they transport the audience to a new realm of excitement. We burst into waves of laughter, clapping throughout the show. The silent action show is based on rhythmic actions and facial expressions and has universal appeal.

Han river

Our attention was naturally drawn to different, colourful bridges as we travelled within the city. Twentythree bridges connect north and south parts of the town that are divided by the Han river. The Han river comes alive at night with glimmering lights and a unique atmosphere. When the weather warms up in Seoul, the river provides a great escape with cooling winds and refreshing environment. The night view of the city lights creates a dreamy effect.

The ferry cruise departs from four areas along the Han, but the most well-known departure point is in Yeoido, which is less than five minutes’ walk from Yeouinaru Station on subway line 5. This popular area has a variety of facilities; bikers and inline skaters can easily be seen taking advantage of the smooth pavement paths along the river.

One of the most recommended spots for evening was the Lotte World. On a Saturday morning, the place was visited by many local families. Carnival parade had different cartoon characters and performers going around the place. Lotte World Korean recreation centre is open from 5 pm to 11 pm. Lotte World consists of the indoor amusement park Adventure and an outdoor called Magic Island, which has numerous, thrill-packed attractions.

Fact file

Visa: Indian nationals need to obtain a Korean visa.

Getting there: Korean Air operates direct scheduled flights from Mumbai to Seoul. From there, one has a choice to fly, take KTX train or a bus to Daejeon.

Accommodation: Seoul has from five-star to traditional home style accommodation. A traditional Korean-style inn or yogwan offers guests a Korean mattress called yo, a quilt known as ibul and a hard pillow (filled with wheat husks) called pyogae. Room rates for first class yogwans are much cheaper than hotel rooms.

Shopping: Handicrafts, gems and stones, electronics, and western fashion garments make good buys in Seoul. Besides Ginseng and Sang Soo’s herb products, Daejeon also has big malls with a variety of products and smaller shops that sell smaller giveaways.

Food: Korean cuisine is nutritious and low in calories. Seasonings used include garlic, red pepper, scallions, soy sauce, fermented bean paste, ginger and sesame oil. Kimchi, the popular cabbage pickle fermented in chilli pepper, is an accompaniment at all meals. Pork, chicken, beef and seafood dishes are popular.

 



HOME