The town that lives with history

It is known by many names: Town of Romanticism, Germans’ Dream City, and Franconian Rome. Inder Raj Ahluwalia visits the German town Bamberg, famous for its museums, cathedrals, monasteries and even brewries

Fact file Bamberg is about two hours by fast train from Frankfurt, which has direct flight connections with several Indian cities. Indian nationals require a visa to enter Germany. Accommodation includes deluxe, standard, and budget hotels. Prior booking is recommended. Eating out is not only easy, but fun. There’s plenty of variety, in vegetarian food too. Though taxis are available, don’t worry about local transport. The town’s attractions are all within walking distance of one another. One can also join organised sightseeing tours of the region.

Time seemed to slow down as we explored the town on foot. We had spent two hours walking along the canal, passing through narrow alleys winding through the old part of town, and then stopped to take in a welcome cup of coffee by the water, with a gaggle of swans literally swimming beneath our feet. Later, we had driven by taxi to take in the much-vaunted views from the hills of architecturally rich churches, patrician houses, and palaces. Churches, gables, palaces, towers, alleyways, squares, and courtyards are clustered in harmony.

The showpiece town set in harmonious surroundings features fabled architecture that is a picture book of varied styles, a fine mesh of Baroque, Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic. The town wears its age with a dignified charm, and like richly matured wine, demands, and gets, undivided attention.

How many illustrious epithets can a town have? In Bamberg’s case, the list seems to have run riot. ‘Franconian Rome’, ‘Town of Romanticism’, The ‘Germans’ Dream City’, and now UNESCO has declared it a World Cultural Heritage site.

The Rose Garden from where one can enjoy a stunning view of the Monastery of St Michael, the Imperial Old Court, the New Residence of the medieval archbishops, and the Old Town Hall — like a ship anchored in the middle of the Regnitz river — are notable urban symbols. Further down-river lies Little Venice, with its picturesque timber-framed houses. The Old Town with its ensemble of monuments has been declared a World Cultural Heritage site by UNESCO.

HARMONIOUS MIX: The Old Town with its ensemble of monuments has been declared a World Cultural Heritage site by UNESCO

Everyone in town stops to admire the statues of Synagogue and Ecclesia, and the Bamberg Rider, created by gifted artists and master builders like Balthasar Neumann, and the Dientzenhofers.

Showing history perpetuated in stone is the cathedral that towers over everything else on one of the seven neighbourhood hills. Inside, lie buried Emperor and Pope, and within its walls stands the famous statue of the Bamberg Horseman. It evokes memories of the murder of a king, of splendid royal occasions, of witch-burning, and of a crusade. From a wide influence to inner limitations, from the peak of power to decline, the cathedral has seen it all. But it remains what it essentially is. A symbol of piety.

Generous praise has been lavished on ETA-Hoffmann-Theatre. And there is the Calderon Festival in the Old Court, and concerts in the cathedral and in cloisters. But the city’s reputation as a major art and culture centre stems largely from the frame of the Bamberg Symphony Orchestra.

Bamberg is home to some of the finest churches, palaces and towers.

Most German cities are museum-rich and Bamberg is no exception. Meriting a visit are Ludwig’s Collection of Baroque Porcelain and Fayence, the New Residence, and the Historical Museum. But pride of place goes to the Diocesan Museum that has amongst its exhibits the Blue Coat of Stars of Emperor Henry 11.

Other symbols of local heritage and history are the Museum of Horticulture and Viticulture, the Missionary Museum in Bug, and the unusual but exciting Franconian Brewing Museum located in the vaults of the former Benedictine Monastery of St Michael.

Just when you begin to think local fame is all about just fine views and monuments, they let you in on their special secret. The town is home to the famous ‘smoked beer’ or ‘Rauchbier’, as the Germans call it. It is a great local specialty, tasting something like liquid ham. (The smoky flavour is obtained by exposing the malt to the harsh, aromatic smoke of burning beach-wood logs). Nine breweries still operate in the town, and about 90 in the surroundings, giving this region the highest density of breweries worldwide.

Smoked beer happens to be one among some 50 different types.

Not surprisingly, indulgence comes rather easy here. Whether it’s festive dining out, or ‘smoked beer’ in a cosy tavern, or Franconian wine served on a shiny, scrubbed table, or hearty snacking in a beer-garden, or just a leisurely coffee and tea in the Rose Garden, the local dining experience is definitive.

Its rich historical background notwithstanding, the town is by no means a museum of stones. The tourist fame apart – tourists throng to walk along the narrow canals and lanes, souvenir shop at chic little downtown boutiques, and admire its landmark structures — its 70,000 inhabitants make it the biggest town in the district of Upper Franconia.

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