Desert charm
A trip to Al Ain, an oasis in Dubai, where underground water comes up through aquifers, is a must if one travels to the UAE, write Asha and Ramesh Seth

The mosque at Al Ain
(Above) The mosque at Al Ain and (below) the oasis as it used to be before it became green. — Photos by the writers

The oasis as it used to be before it became green

Since when as a child I came to know about the existence of oases in the deserts I had always wanted to visit one. A visit to Dubai gave me a chance to visit Al Ain oasis, the most famous of all the oases. It is merely 135 km from Dubai. So, one day my friend drove my wife and me to Al Ain. It was only 90 minutes drive on a first class road in a powerful car, often cruising at 160 km per hour.

For the first hundred kilometres it was all a desert country with occasional patches of trees. Once we neared Al Ain, the topography changed and more green patches started appearing on both sides of the road. Finally we reached the destination. Even in the desert there are occasional rains. The desert sand does not hold up any water. As a result all the water seeps underground and none of it evaporates. The underground water travels and collects at some deeper recesses of earth and eventually finds its way up to the ground level through some aquifer or springs. Al Ain is a lucky place that here the underground water comes up through aquifers and wadis. And water is the elixir of life. Since time immemorial those underground sources have nourished this oasis. They provide water for the crops, animals and the people.

Al Ain is a fertile oasis. Its name ("the spring" in Arabic) derives from its originally plentiful supply of fresh water from underground sources. Historically, caravans have been coming here in course of their journeys for water, rest and recuperation. Evidence of burials of the oldest farming communities in the region has been discovered dating from the late fourth and third early millennia BC. The area is still famous for its traditional irrigation system, the Falaj, some parts of which date back as far as 1, 000 BC. The water was directed through a network of skilfully designed, man-made tunnels and channels to provide ‘trickle irrigation’ to the farms and date groves in the surrounding area. The use of modern water supply technology in Al Ain can most clearly be seen in the greenery covering more than 100 sq km of the area. Even the six-lane roads in the city are lined with a wide variety of trees and shrubs, both indigenous and foreign. The government is interested in the process of reclaiming desert land and transforming it into something both beautiful and useable. The 100 million assorted trees and 18 million date palms are watered by a combination of reprocessed waste water and desalinated water, leaving the groundwater as the main supply for human consumption.

There are numerous farms of all sizes around the city which produce an astonishing amount of salad crops, tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuces, and even strawberries and most of the dates. Experiments are continually in progress to produce desert-hardy plants to increase the self-sufficiency requirements of the country. After travelling to a desert country to find oneself in a country covered by trees is a fascinating change. The merciless afternoon sun does not hold any terror once you are in the oasis.

The massive modern development in Al Ain can be traced directly to the influence of the royal family of Abu Dhabi in decisions regarding investment in this city. Al Ain is not only the birthplace of the ruler of the country, His Highness Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the ruler of Abu Dhabi but His Highness had also been a long time resident here. As such it remains close to his heart. It is no coincidence that Al Ain was chosen as the site for both the United Arab Emirates University and for educational facilities for the Al Ain higher colleges of technology.

Al Ain fully deserves its title of garden city in the desert. Its natural geographical features, enhanced by the "beautification scheme" launched on the President’s initiative, make it a pleasant and refreshing place in which to spend time, whether as a resident or as a tourist. It boasts some very good five star hotels.

Al Ain is the fourth largest city in the United Arab Emirates with a population of about half a million. The freeways connecting Al Ain, Abu Dhabi and Dubai form a geographic triangle in the centre of the country, each city roughly 150 km from the other two. It is often called the ‘Garden City of the Gulf’ given the many parks, tree-lined avenues and decorative roundabouts within the city. Strict height controls on new buildings, to no more than four floors, emphasises the greenery of the city.

Al Ain is developing as a tourist destination. It regularly records the highest summer temperatures in the country, but the dry desert air makes it a welcome retreat from the coastal humidity of the larger cities. Many Arab nationals in Abu Dhabi have holiday houses in the city making it a popular weekend destination for families from the capital. Its attractions include the Al Ain National Museum, the Al Ain Palace Museum, several restored forts and the Hili archeological site, dating back to the Bronze Age.





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