Food talk
Fish and fusion
Vilayati sorshe maach is healthy, light and nutritious, easy to prepare and appealing to the eye, writes
Pushpesh Pant
There
was a time when the culinary skills of a daughter-in-law in Bengal
were tested by her competence in grinding sorshe-mustard. A
harder touch and the paste would turn bitter; a little lack of
attention and the oily residue was unacceptable. The pleasantly
pungent spice lent distinction to delectable hilsa aka illich
maach, the incomparable fish that swims against the stream to
spawn—but that is another story. Life today is much more hectic
and who can be bothered by the grinding stone? What was once a
legendary Amaar Sonar Bangla classic has become a rarity. We
were recently surprised by a bhadralok acquaintance who treated
us to a sorshe maach prepared with bottled kasundhi
manufactured in Bhutan. Good friend Indrajit dared to boast that he
could do better with good old English mustard. When we raised
finicky objections, he reminded us that it is the phoren chchena
that has contributed to the enduring enchantment of Bengali sweets.
Fusion, according to him, is what has ensured the evolution of Indian
cuisine and saved it from fossilisation. To prove his point, he cooked
for us a river sole with bottled mustard and we must confess that we
enjoyed the hybrid product. The dish is healthy—light and nutritious—easy
to prepare and appealing to the eye. We recommend it wholeheartedly to
our readers. One admission of guilt before we proceed further; one
reader Joshi from Delhi has communicated unhappiness about the recipe
of bharwan kele published a few weeks back. He is not
the only one who has been disappointed. At home, too, we have
encountered dissent (particularly about the hard skin). We should have
added that bananas in the North are not comparable to the variety,
suited to cooking, available in Kerala—from where the recipe is
purloined. In any case, kacche kele are an acquired taste
with the possible exception of kofte. The quantum of stuffing,
too, should be adjusted as per individual taste. Salt, we beg
forgiveness on bended knees, is always according to taste. How could
we omit the line. Our apologies.
Chef’s special
Ingredients
Fish (fillets firm, white- river sole
preferably) 500 gm Juice of lemon 1 tbsp Garlic paste 1
tsp Ginger paste 1 tsp Green chillies (deseeded and ground
to paste) two A large pinch of salt Refined oil 1
tbsp Bottled kasundhi or English mustard 3 tbsp Method Clean
the fish and cut it into bite-size chunks. Make a marinade,
blending lemon juice, garlic and ginger and green chilly pastes.
Rub the fish well with this marinade and keeping a cool place
for about an hour. Glaze a non-stick frying pan with a thin film
of oil and pan grill the fish for about four minutes on each
side—turning carefully with a wooden spatula. Place the
grilled fish on a plate and drape with kasundhi/English
mustard. Enjoy. If a lighter taste is preferred, you may dilute
the mustard with a spoonful or more of thick curds. The prefix Vilaayati
indicates not only the bottled mustard it also gives you the
licence to serve a milder dish. Nothing of course matches the
magic of freshly ground sorshe but this recipe does have
the advantage of saving time and novelty. |
|