Food talk
Fish and fusion
Vilayati sorshe maach is healthy, light and nutritious, easy to prepare and appealing to the eye, writes Pushpesh Pant

There was a time when the culinary skills of a daughter-in-law in Bengal were tested by her competence in grinding sorshe-mustard. A harder touch and the paste would turn bitter; a little lack of attention and the oily residue was unacceptable. The pleasantly pungent spice lent distinction to delectable hilsa aka illich maach, the incomparable fish that swims against the stream to spawn—but that is another story.

Life today is much more hectic and who can be bothered by the grinding stone? What was once a legendary Amaar Sonar Bangla classic has become a rarity. We were recently surprised by a bhadralok acquaintance who treated us to a sorshe maach prepared with bottled kasundhi manufactured in Bhutan. Good friend Indrajit dared to boast that he could do better with good old English mustard.

When we raised finicky objections, he reminded us that it is the phoren chchena that has contributed to the enduring enchantment of Bengali sweets. Fusion, according to him, is what has ensured the evolution of Indian cuisine and saved it from fossilisation. To prove his point, he cooked for us a river sole with bottled mustard and we must confess that we enjoyed the hybrid product. The dish is healthy—light and nutritious—easy to prepare and appealing to the eye. We recommend it wholeheartedly to our readers.

One admission of guilt before we proceed further; one reader Joshi from Delhi has communicated unhappiness about the recipe of bharwan kele published a few weeks back. He is not the only one who has been disappointed. At home, too, we have encountered dissent (particularly about the hard skin). We should have added that bananas in the North are not comparable to the variety, suited to cooking, available in Kerala—from where the recipe is purloined.

In any case, kacche kele are an acquired taste with the possible exception of kofte. The quantum of stuffing, too, should be adjusted as per individual taste. Salt, we beg forgiveness on bended knees, is always according to taste. How could we omit the line. Our apologies.


Chef’s special

Ingredients

Fish (fillets firm, white- river

sole preferably) 500 gm

Juice of lemon 1 tbsp

Garlic paste 1 tsp

Ginger paste 1 tsp

Green chillies

(deseeded and ground to paste) two

A large pinch of salt

Refined oil 1 tbsp

Bottled kasundhi or

English mustard 3 tbsp

Method

Clean the fish and cut it into bite-size chunks. Make a marinade, blending lemon juice, garlic and ginger and green chilly pastes. Rub the fish well with this marinade and keeping a cool place for about an hour. Glaze a non-stick frying pan with a thin film of oil and pan grill the fish for about four minutes on each side—turning carefully with a wooden spatula. Place the grilled fish on a plate and drape with kasundhi/English mustard. Enjoy. If a lighter taste is preferred, you may dilute the mustard with a spoonful or more of thick curds. The prefix Vilaayati indicates not only the bottled mustard it also gives you the licence to serve a milder dish. Nothing of course matches the magic of freshly ground sorshe but this recipe does have the advantage of saving time and novelty.





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