The colours are futuristic — navy wine and jade green. The normal choli has been replaced by a short bustier topped with a loose jacket. The accent is on creating drama with sheer look scoring over tailored or fitted silhouettes.

Even the saree blouse is being treated as a body suit, with staid silks and crepes making way for fabrics like stretch lycra. Bobby and Manju Grover have attached floral embellishments at strategic places for the demure wearer, without compromising on the international look.

The saree, in a matching fabric, is worn low at the hips to resemble the silhouette of a draped gown. at an ornate level, swarovski has come to occupy centrestage as designers are using crystal glitter to maximum advantage. Pearls, beads, sequins and other such embellishments have receded in importance. So, Bhamini is using swarovski for her styles, Tarun Tahiliani takes net and appliqu`E9 organza and studs it with crystal.

The blouse can take the shape of a daring halter, an encrusted bustier or a clinging corset.

A significant fashion development that hasn’t gone unnoticed is improvisation on the traditional lehnga. New labels are retaining the silhouettes of this long skirt but have cut it on the bias. Cascading flowers are then embroidered from the waist down while the hemline is left untouched. The choli is replaced with one shoulder cropped top. A matching chiffon dupatta completes the look — very bold yet traditional. The idea is to give contemporary twist to the conventional.

No designer wants to break away from his or her cultural moorings as this is what carries an Indian stamp in the international marketplace. Some are even using renaissance motifs or art deco-inspired embroidery in traditional salwar-kameez and churidar-kurta ensembles. Ramrakhiani uses embroidery for a mandarin collar sherwani teamed with palazzos and tasseled stole.

Bobby and Manju Grover have created bridal lehngas etched with gold lace, while for the blouse they have used Italian jacquard embellished with tonal pearls and nakquis that replace traditional silk and brocade.

As for accessories, gold jewellery has undergone a metamorphosis, with the emergence of polished metals and other variations. Pewter and silver ornaments in various hues and colours, textures and blends are just as popular. According to designers like Poonam Soni, the trend is towards vibrant colours in minimalist styles to match the buoyance of the millennium. Textures are polished and almost steely in appearance. Stones are also used a great deal.