River in Rage
Every year, the tribal district of Kinnaur in Himachal Pradesh faces the wrath of landslides, debris flows, cloudbursts, flash floods and avalanches leaving behind trails of destruction. All the talks on conservation of biodiversity, sustainable development and disaster management, have not helped beyond that into the real problem plaguing this Himalayan land, which otherwise, has been acknowledged as one of the best scenic beauties in the world.
The basic problem lies with the Sutlej and its tributaries. Sutlej is a mighty river that originates in Tibet from Lake Mansarovar and Rakas Tal. Prior to entering India near Shipki La in Kinnaur, it travels about 320 km in Tibet. Of the 51,000 sq km of catchment area upstream of Rampur, 14,000 sq km lies in India. The hydropower potential in the Sutlej river basin has been estimated by the experts at 9,000 MW, of which only 1,500 MW has been tapped so far by the Nathpa-Jhakri power project. A river basin with such a high potential for power generation is certainly an asset for the nation. The altitude, terrain conditions and geomorphology of the area demand specialised feasibility studies for full exploitation of the hydropower asset. Investigations by the Geological Survey of India show that the area is prone to quakes. The Kaurik fault, an active fault, passes through the area, close to which the Sutlej Jal Vidhyut Nigam (SJVN) has planned to construct world’s highest dam for a 1020 MW power plant.
Danger zone
The upper reaches of Sutlej are prone to cloudbursts. Of late, such cloudbursts have become a hazard since the load of silt carried by a river during a flash flood is more than doubled at such times. This year’s monsoon had forced the authorities concerned of the SJVN to shut-down the 1500 MW Nathpa-Jhakri Hydropower Project for more than 21 days because of the high content of silt in the river. Debris at the mouths and catchments of most of the tributaries of the Sutlej causes sudden erosion leading to increase in silt content. Accumulation of snow on the higher reaches of the mountains and excessive rain during monsoon adds to the total water content of the slope-forming material. Water loses the slopes and the rock masses slides down in the sudden downward force of water created by the cloudbursts. Areas beyond Rampur, upstream of Sutlej experience such landslides. Keeping in view of these facts, the entire tribal belt of Kinnaur being in regular danger zone of the Himalayas demands special attention from the policy makers- politicians, geologists, bureaucrats because it is an economic asset in the form huge hydropower potential, besides, the biodiversity that the land possess.
Unscientific approach
The unscientific approach being adopted by the government and private authorities in construction of dams and roads is causing erosion in the already ecologically fragile mountainous region of Kinnaur than deforestation and mining. The situation is so bad in the catchments of the Sutlej that has become one of the most polluted rivers of the country. A study conducted by the engineers of the SJVN that is finding it difficult to operate the Nathpa-Jhakri Hydropower Project because of excessive silt in the river has revealed that the main source of silt is not in the tributaries of Sutlej, be it Spiti or Parechu, which originate and pass through the erosion-prone cold desert areas of Ladakh, Spiti and Tibet. The fast-flowing river is being polluted due to thousands of tones of debris being thrown into the river daily by the government agencies involved in the construction and maintenance of roads in the region, besides, the private companies that have come up recently in the region to construct tunnels and dams for their hydropower projects. The debris is being dumped into the river after cutting the hills to widen roads. There are many points along Sutlej upstream Nathpa where debris thrown on hill slopes is being washed into the river by the lashing rains in the monsoons. The repair work going on a war-footing on the old Hindustan-Tibet Road has led to the problem. The August 2006 landslide at Pangi near Reckong Peo is a live example of the debris coming down on the new Hindustan-Tibet Road (NH-22) subsequently thrown into Sutlej. The worst of the situation is in-between Tapri and Karcham where a private company is coming out with a 1000 MW Hydropower Project and is also widening the Hindustan Tibet Road for the easy flow of their heavy vehicles. All the debris coming out of the cutting of rocks is thrown into the river.
The risk factor
Faced with falling yields for the past many decades from their sloping or terraced fields, most of the tribal farmers of Kinnaur have of late been engaged in clearing new land for farming. It tends to be an option favoured by the respective governments by allotting them land even from the unclassified forests. A large portion of these lands in the uplands in the tribal belt are suitable for the cultivation of apples, which is the main cash crop of Kinnaur. As per the scientific studies conducted by various universities from time to time, apple trees require plenty of water soon after the flowering begins. The farmers irrigate their orchards extensively as the irrigation resources are easily available at no cost. In the absence of judicious utilization of water resources, the land beneath the apple orchards are becoming ‘spongy’ and prone to soil erosion and landslides. Even a minor cloudburst or earthquake could shake the upper crust leading to devastation. A study has pointed out that there is a great seepage of water beneath the upper crust of the rocks originating from Kalpa village passing beneath Reckong Peo the district headquarters of Kinnaur culminating in Sutlej creating a constant problem for the very existence of the Hindustan-Tibet Road in front of Powari village. A similar problem also exists in Ribba village. The authorities concerned should realize such problems well in time otherwise it would not be shocking if one or the other day Reckong Peo or Ribba slides down into Sutlej and perishes into the pages of history.
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What ails pharmaceutical industry?
Himachal Pradesh Government’s mandatory condition of injecting 70 per cent local manpower in the industrial units across the hill state has only worsened the condition of the pharmaceutical industry struggling hard to remain in real good shape.
Afflicted by poor infrastructural facilities and the ever rising cost of transportation in the state, the problem has turned all the more critical over the years. Regardless of the fact that the number of trained Himachalis is grossly inadequate, the industry is constantly being forced to swallow the bitter pill of local employment. Ailments aplenty “As the pharmaceutical sector is fundamentally knowledge based, it requires trained manpower essentially with a background in pharmacy,” says the Chairman of Ind-Swift Limited, Dr Gopal Munjal. “And this is where the problem begins”. Elaborating, Dr Munjal says: “Till date, the state has just one college in Shimla district that offers a diploma in pharmacy. Few seats are also available in Government Girls Poly-technical Institute at Kandaghat. But all this is barely adequate to meet the growing requirements of the burgeoning industry”. As of now in Baddi-Barotiwala-Nalagarh industrial belt of district Solan alone, organizations like Nicholas Piramal, Dr Reddy’s Lab, Cipla, Cadila Healthcare, Panacea Biotech, Alkem, Wockhardt and Glenmark have set up their units. Drive down the rough terrain to reach Baddi and you will in fact see sprawling industries spread over undulating land. Each unit with contemporary design has state of the art technology and equipment with investment running into several crorers — there can hardly be any doubt about it. In all, over 300 pharmaceutical units have registered in the state. The sources add out of the total, just about 100 have so far commenced production due to manpower and host of other problems. At least some of them would like to pull out, but find it exceedingly difficult to do so after investing huge amounts. Costly cure In the absence of adequate number of trained professionals belonging to the state, the companies are forced to “import” manpower from other places. And for fulfilling the criterion of providing local employment, they hire localities for unskilled jobs against “non-existent vacancies”. Or else, the companies here are forced to train fresh graduates, after hiring them, for good eight to 10 months. For the purpose of providing extensive training in pharmaceutical sciences, the trainees are, in fact, sent to units located in other states. “All this is leading to over-employment and a rise in the cost of production,” says executive with another pharmaceutical unit Ramandeep Singh. “As such, a major chunk of what we gain in terms of revenue as a result of tax holiday goes in paying the salaries of employees far excess than actual requirement”. Ramandeep adds that when his company decided to shift operations from Punjab to Himachal with the announcement of a central incentive package in January 2003, every thing appeared to be just perfect. The concoction of excise duty exemptions and other attractive concessions was just right for the state to emerge as a leading pharmaceutical destination. But soon the company, like so many other units, realized that the local employment clause, in the employment policy of December 2004, would leave the industry struggling for breath. “As such, the company decided to abandon its expansion plans here and, in lieu, set up ancillary units in Uttranchal Pradesh where no such clause is in force,” he says. Over-dosage Though a senior officer in the state’s Labour and Employment Department says the clause was introduced to ensure not only the state’s development, but also the generation of local employment, the industrialists claim that the government has over the years been increasing the bitter medicine in small dosages. In 1991, the employment policy simply stated that preference should be given in the industrial units to the local population. But the local intake was later hiked to 50 per cent in 1996 and again to 65 per cent in 1999. The clause of 70 per cent employment to the Himachalis was introduced in the employment policy of December 2004. As the debate on the necessity of including such a clause continues, the industrialists are hoping for some more relaxation in the laws governing the hiring of manpower for enabling them to recover the health of the industrial units. |
HIllside
view Queues give us many clues about a city’s state of mind and public culture. Mumbai queues at bus stops are the very picture of discipline, a sense of order. Delhi’s queue-jumping gives you goose pimples— people muscle their way up nonchalantly; or slyly slip into vantage positions. Kolkata? Dadalog don’t believe in such petty systems! My first culture shock in Mumbai 35 years ago was administered by a bus conductor. He saw a youngster jumping the queue and getting into the bus. He made him get off the bus before whistling it off. I saw another bus offloading a passenger who had flashed a hundred rupee note for a small fare. Such things were unthinkable in any other city, even those days. Queue breaking has become a sign of strength, a status symbol, in our society. It has become an ugly component of ‘Indianness’, however, much we gloat over “I love my India”, and mera bharat mahan. I have seen my foreign-returned friends and relatives standing solemnly and diligently in various queues but reverting to their old ways within months. You can spot a Hmachali easily in a crowd forcing its way into Delhi buses. He would be least aggressive, trying to move gently in the imaginary queue, and would be probably left behind to wait for the next bus. At Shimla’s lift from the Cart Road to the Mall, and the bus stands and busy shops and restaurants of major tourist and pilgrim towns like Manali, Jwalaji, Naina Devi etc, you can easily tell the outsiders from the way they break or push ahead in the queues. Our peace-loving nature should not mean tolerating queue-breakers’ brazen aggression. It amounts to timidity when we resort to ‘philosophical’ indifference or rationalisations like aajkal aisa hi hota hai; kya karsakte hai ji (“these days it happens like this only; what can we do”). But the worst is when a good citizen protests and none else in the queue supports him strongly. Twenty fellows in the row watch one man fighting injustice and often end up pacifying him stupidly “chhodo ji…” Things like queue breaking are done right there in a crowd, in front of our eyes. They are much easier to handle than catching a gun-totting killer. But our indifferent attitude gives strength to criminals. You can loot someone, rape or murder in public view and walk away. We see it in all walks of life— politics, bureaucracy, different professions— everywhere. The Jessica Lal case says it all. Our popular movies too promote such feeble-hearted public behaviour. A hundred scared people stand in the middle of a baazar, watching a woman being stripped or an old man being killed— unless the hero arrives for rescue. We all merely daydream about doing heroic deeds— which frees us from the psychological pressure to perform in real life, and allows our fears and other complexes to flow back smoothly. That so many dumboes stand around and stare at a crime inspires, reinforces and finally legitimises a similar behaviour in such situations. Main kya karoon, sab log wahan khade thein (what could I do, so many others were standing there…) That is precisely the strength of all corrupt and law-breaking men and women in our society. They must have tasted the weaknesses of the janata on small matters early in their careers and got emboldened slowly. Small seeds grow into big trees. Today you break the queue and get away with it— tomorrow, you go behind a public counter and wangle a bus ticket. You forge your brother’s name on an application form to avoid delay (arre, kaun dekhega! Phikar math karo yaar… ). A wallet drops out of a pedestrian’s pocket— you pick it up slyly. Your skills flower further when you join service and learn how to make false TA/DA claims, submit fake medical bills for reimbursement…You graduate into it all, step by step. The standard response? “Chaddo yaar !” Is that what we want this beautiful land of gods and goddesses to degenerate into? Wearing colourful costumes, making pompous speeches, celebrating festivals with holidays— well, they alone are not culture. The scent of bad winds is wafting from the plains. Beware! World’s funniest joke!
It took British Professor of Psychology Dr Richard Wiseman a survey of 3,00,000 people from over 60 countries to spot what he considers “the world’s funniest joke”. This is part of his research into the science of laughter. Nearly 40,000 jokes were assessed in a year’s time. Wiseman claims (after ‘extensive detective work’) that the funniest gag was written by Spike Milligan for the Goon show in 1950’s. The gag is produced below, as reported in The Independent : Two hunters are out in the woods when one of them collapses. He doesn’t seem to be breathing and his eyes are glazed. The other guy whips out his phone and calls the emergency services. He gasps: “ My friend is dead! What can I do?” The operator says: “Calm down, I can help. First let us make sure he’s dead”. There is silence. Then a gun-shot is heard. Back on the phone, the guy says: “O.K. Now what?” |
shimla Diary
A history of sorts was created when the first-ever case was heard in Himachal by the Court of the Commissioner for Persons with Disability, though the post has been in existence for long.
Had it not been for the creation of the Himachal chapter of the Society for Disabilities and Rehabilitation Studies recently, probably people would have remained ignorant about the existence of the Commissioner, whose court deals with all problems, pertaining to people with different disabilities. The case of 15-year-old Tarun Kumar, a physically challenged person whose hearing is impaired by almost 70 per cent, was denied a seat in the Industrial Training Institute (ITI), Chaura Maidan, here despite six seats being reserved for the handicapped. Moreover, injustice was done with him as only three candidates turned up for counselling for the six seats. The three seats for handicapped, which remained vacant, were given to non-disabled persons by the ITI authorities. Things started moving for Tarun after his case was taken up by Mr Ajay Srivastav, Chairman of the Himachal Chapter of the Society for Disabilities and Rehabilitation Studies. “On inquiring the authorities told me that Tarun had been denied admission as he was deaf and the ITI had no provision of tutoring a person whose hearing was impaired and he should seek admission in the Sundernagar institute,” said Mr Srivastav. The Principal Secretary, Social Justice and Empowerment, who is holding the additional charge of the Commissioner for Persons with Disability, was approached by the society. A notice was issued by the Commissioner to the Principal, to appear in person. Interestingly, the ITI authorities agreed to admit Tarun in the Instrument Mechanic course two hours before the court hearing was scheduled. The case is an eye opener not just for the candidates, who seek admission under the handicapped quota but also for the government officials in Himachal, who are not aware of their powers of giving justice to people suffering with various disabilities. The Himachal Chapter of the Society for Disabilities and Rehabilitation Studies now intends holding workshops at the district level so that people can be made aware about the rules, their rights and the agencies to contact. As per the 2001 census, there are 1.65 lakh physically challenged person in Himachal with a literacy rate of 52 per cent. Change of heart The sudden change of heart in case of the former tourism minister, Mr Vijai Singh Mankotia, has taken many by surprise as it was not too long ago that he had practically raised a banner of revolt against his own government in the name of protecting the interest of Kangra. The former Army officer who has had a love-hate relationship with Mr Virbhadra Singh during the past over two decades has suddenly developed cordial relations with the Chief Minister. The two have not just been having cordial meetings but have often been travelling together. This sudden change in Mr Mankotia’s behaviour has led to speculation that he could make a comeback in the state Cabinet, which is being viewed as the compromise formula. There is one vacancy in the Cabinet as after the resignation of the former Education minister, Ms Asha Kumari no new face has been inducted in the ministry. It was after being dropped from the ministry during the downsizing exercise that he had become very critical of not just his own government, but the Chief Minister in particular. It is being said Mr Mankotia’s changed demeanour is the result of the High Command’s directives to him. Coming down on telecom A local NGO, People’s Action Group (PAG), has come out against the installation of telecom towers in residential areas of the state capital. The PAG has demanded that the Municipal Corporation should immediately stop the installation of these telecom towers from the residential areas. “Concentration of telecom towers in certain areas of the town are making the citizens prone to hazardous micro wave radiations, thus affecting their health,” says Kanwar Bhupinder Singh. He said in a recent judgment, the Mumbai Civil Court had ordered the dismantling of the cell phone towers in Mumbai. He said it was not just the owner of the building whose consent before installing a tower on a building should be taken but even the residents of the area must be taken into confidence, he demanded.
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Branding Dhabas
Next week tourists to the hill state can look for a certified dhaba to have a taste of the “restaurant culture” in the hitherto non-descript wayside eating joints. The state Tourism Department has launched a scheme to certify and grade the dhabas situated along the national and state highways on the basis of facilities provided by them.
The dhaba owners will be required to
fulfil minimum standards like proper furniture, parking space, uniforms for serving staff and separate sanitation facilities for men and women to get the certification. The dhabas will be graded in to A, B and C, depending on the quality of infrastructure and the services provided. The Deluxe buses will be asked to halt for tea and meals only at dhabas graded A, according to a senior officer of the department. So far no effort has been made to improve facilities at the wayside dhabas that cater to the needs of visitors. No attention has been paid to cleanliness and quality of service. Complaints of unhygienic conditions, lack of sanitation and poor quality of food and discourteous behaviour of the staff have been common. Regular travellers on the state road corporation buses had always grudged that the buses stopped for meals at dhabas, which did not have basic facilities. The department will inspect the premises of the applicant for registration and suggest the improvements required for certification. The role of the department was however, not confined to certification, as it would also provide training to the dhaba owners and the staff, in etiquette, cooking and serving to make the tourists feel at home. Training will be provided in collaboration with the Indian Institute of Hotel Management and the Indian Tourism Development Corporation. The department had already received some applications for registration. The steps were necessitated as the tourist traffic to the state had more than doubled over the past one decade and it was no more a seasonal affair. A large number of dhabas have come up along the highways leading to Shimla, Manali and Dharamsala.
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Surging ahead on path of economic development, the hill state is yet to tap its youth power by providing them employment. The special economic package extended by the Centre to the state till 2010 may have increased the inflow of capital and thereby creating more job opportunities for the youth but the state government is still struggling to implement its legislation for providing 70 per cent jobs to more than 7.78 lakh unemployed youth into industry and hydro projects in the state. The problem can be solved with the industry and the government working together, according to the experts at a seminar on ‘Enhancing employability of Himachali youth: opportunities and challenges’ organised by the CII and the Divisional Commissioner, Mandi division, at the Valabh Post-Graduate College in Mandi. The participants said with the industrialists and the state government moving in two different directions, the challenge had become more difficult to meet. On the other hand, the industry chambers claimed that state had a mere five per cent of skilled work force while a majority 80 percent was unskilled”. The unskilled youth workforce had exposed the state’s Industrial Training Institutes (ITIs), which were offering obsolete trades and skills, while industries required specialised skills. Also the industrial houses were hunting for the manpower from Solan and Nahan employment exchanges. The lack of availability of any figures on the unemployment scenario in the absence of any surveys on the industry and the employment scene made the problem more complicated the participants felt. IPH Minister Kaul Singh Thakur in his inaugural address said the special package had brought in an investment of Rs 24,000 crore and generated over 2.50 lakh jobs in the state. He urged the government and industry to work together and find ways and means to provide work to state’s youth. — K.C. |
The human face of a cop
The popular image of police is one of a baton-wielding person in a Khakhi uniform invoking public ire. But now it is in for a major makeover, thanks to community policing scheme launched by the Himachal police. Aimed at boosting police-public relations, a network of prominent citizens set up by the Mandi police in each locality will help the police to adopt a more human face.
Hardened by their training in dealing with criminals the policemen will now be taught to be more friendly and amicable in their behaviour towards the ordinary law-abiding citizens through the scheme. Local residents, including ex-servicemen, retired government servants, prominent citizens, and councilors will make police more responsive to the problems of residents. The community policing will come in handy in solving or pre-empting the incidents of crimes that result from thefts, burglaries, drug- peddling and drug addiction, gambling and betting, production illicit liquor and drunken driving. Taking the lead in the CP is the Mandi police, which has put in place a network of public conveners in each locality, to communicate and co-ordinate with the police constables on duty in the area. “We have observed the success rate of CP in solving the petty crimes is over 99 percent. The citizens’ participation is needed to stem the rising petty crimes like thefts, drug addiction and peddling and crimes against women”, says the SSP M Chander Shekhar. President municipal council H R Vaidya, says that the house owners must be held responsible and not rent out their house without verifying credentials and informing the police about tenants”. Former president of the municipal council, Sushila Sonkhla suggests that by forming a committee the administration can check the problem of outsiders getting affidavits of bonafide residence from lawyers without scrutiny. President Progressive Writers’ Association Dinu Kashayap says the criminals do not need any certificate to create trouble, and only strict vigilance was needed. “Police like other departments has its shortfalls and problems but people’s participation will bring about a positive change in solving petty disputes including drug addiction and other preventable crimes”, observes SSP M Chander Shekhar. Police will also assist senior citizens in paying their bills, seeking assistance from doctors and save them from criminals, says Shekhar. The police will ensure action on every complaint made by a caller and the same will be recorded in the interactive voice recorder, says the SSP. We also propose to start a drug de-addiction centre at the zonal hospital to rehabilitate the drug addicts in the town”, says SSP Sekhar. |
Bowled over with beauty
If Dharamsala is being touted as the sports capital of Himachal Pradesh, it’s primarily due to the coming up of a stadium, which puts the sleepy town on the cricket map by playing host to a practice match between India and Pakistan last year. It’s picturesque environs had left the Pakistani players spellbound.
And now, the four-day Mohammad Nisar Troply match between Ranji Trophy winners Uttar pradesh team and Pakistan’s team from Sialkot, which recently lifted Ranji Trophy’s counterpart— Kai-e-Azam Cup, would be played at the cricket stadium in Dharamsala from September 19 to 22. Indian cricketing stars, including Mohammad Kaif, R.P. Singh, Rajesh Chawla and Suresh Raina, are expected to play the international-level match, which would be hosted by the Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association (HPCA). The exact dates of the match could be changed as the UPCA has sought postponement of the match from the BCCI in view of the cricket tournament in Malaysia. Future perfect The HPCA president, Mr Anurag Thakur, says the stadium presently has a capacity of over 10,000, which would be doubled in near future. The absence of a five-star hotel in Dharamsala is one major hurdle to hosting big international matches. Considering this, the association has been repeatedly writing to the state government to give permission to allow setting up a clubhouse in the stadium, he says. The proposed clubhouse will have a restaurant, gymnasium and bar, which would suffice for the condition of a five-star hotel. As part of the association’s plans to promote the game in the state, he says a detailed programme has been chalked out under which 36 academies, affiliated to the association, will be provided with cricketing paraphernalia. Money matter To generate funds for the development of the cricket infrastructure in the state, the HPCA will also construct 42 corporate boxes in Dharamsala Stadium. “During the matches, these rooms will be rented to big companies and for the rest of the time, we will use those as club rooms to generate funds, says Mr Thakur. Mr Thakur says the association has decided to hire 36 coaches under the scheme and a proposal to hold inter-coaching centre matches to give more match practice to players is also being considered. This will help in identifying outstanding cricketers who otherwise could be left out at the district level, he says. Promotion of club cricket He says the HPCA is keen on promoting club cricket in the state and it had been made mandatory for all district cricket associations to hold inter-club matches. If they failed to do so, they would not be entitled for subsidy and other grants from the HPCA, he added. For the forthcoming match, considering that one of the teams is from Pakistan, adequate security arrangements of the two teams will be made. The two teams are expected to arrive here on September 17 and the Pakistani team would be crossing over from the Wagah border. The BCCI president, Mr Sharad Pawar, has been invited to preside over the closing ceremony and the Chief Minister, Mr Virbhadra Singh, is expected to be the chief guest at the inaugural function. Not so pricey Mr Sharma says even though there will not be any free tickets, the HPCA planned to have reasonably priced tickets for the match. He says spectators from Pakistan will also be coming over from across the border to watch the match. The HPCA has earmarked Rs 60 lakh for providing facilities to district and block-level cricket academies under its ‘Lakshay ‘07’ programme. Each district-level cricket academy will now go in for turf and cemented wickets at the district headquarters. Other basic infrastructure like nets will be provided by the HPCA. The association will also provide coaches. Safe landing The expansion of the airport to enable the landing of a 48-seater plane in Dharamsala is another must before a big match could be hosted here and the administration is already working on the project. “But despite all this, this is one of the most picturesque stadiums in the country. Besides, not many cricket associations in the country have their own stadiums,” says Thakur. |
Once is not enough
In 1993, Peter Van Ham a 33-year old German travel writer from Frankfurt stepped into hospitality-trained Shimlaite Mohit Sharma’s Great Himalayan Travels, desiring to visit Himachal’s mysterious tribal zone. Mohit equipped him with a jeep, two tents, sleeping bags, a driver and a cook while his wife Seema provided kitchen supplies/ first aid. Peter carried his sophisticated camera. Bonding instantly, both pioneered a journey to fame, later touring more high mountainous destinations together.
Covering more than I,000 km. in 22 days, this arduous but rewarding itinerary stretched from Shimla via Rampur, Saharan, Sangla, Chitkul, Kalpa, Pooh, Nako, Tabo, Kaza, Key, Keylong, Sarchu finally halting at Leh (5,630mts.).
Penning a journey Back in Germany, Peter soon penned his enthralling experiences in a 239–page book entitled Auf Buddha’s Pfaden (In Buddha’s Footsteps), an instant hit, selling 20,000 copies just after its release, whetting appetite of foreign travelers to rush here, many desiring same route. Wanderlust made Peter come again in 1994, teaming up with Dr. O.C. Handa on research trip to Lahaul and Spiti. Peter’s thirst for traveling n’ writing remaining unsaturated, he came for his third trip in 1995, accompanied by spouse Aglaja, a German psychiatrist and a writer, to co-author a book. Peter had letters from ASI permitting entry to certain monasteries, closed to foreigners. Another one from Dalai Lama authorised him to take pictures of a monastery in Ropa (Kinnaur), which had earlier twice refused him.
Second coming A 20-days itinerary to Himachal’s tribal land resulted in most fascinating 159–paged ‘The Forgotten Gods Of Tibet,’ hailed a masterpiece on subject, prefaced by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. It’s first attempt after Francke (1909) and Italian Tibetologist Guissepe Tucci (1935) describing Buddhist monastics’ artistic symbolic meanings. Translated into English and French, it’s an excellent reference for travelers, scholars, artists, etc. containing unique photographs of breathtaking views of untouched inner Himalayas’ monasteries, lamas, yaks, murals, maps and sketches. It depicts that rare picture of Kye Gompa, Spiti’s largest monastery, clicked by Peter, hanging from a high bare cliff with Mohit firmly holding him from waist, to prevent his fall. Famed film- maker Tina Radke Geraich, wished to make a documentary on Kinnaur, Lahaul and Spiti. In 1998 an enthusiastic film unit from Neider Olm comprising Peter as Scientific Advisor, Tina as producer and a cameraman undertook a 40- day filming trip.
Midnight shoot Peter’s Man Friday, Mohit as a translator and co-ordinator, organized tribal dances at Chitkul, shooting past midnight. He also especially had Bhuchen lamas to pierce their cheeks with a trishul, a Buddhist tantrik rite, for Tina’s shoot. The adventurous team spent a night on high mountainous Kunzum Pass to shoot next morning’s sunrise panorama. With high velocity winds blowing, they were scared lest their jeep and tents be blown away! At Nako, they plucked peas from terraced fields, relishing them by kilos! Peter danced gustily to foot tapping rhythm with Himachali tribals. Music appeals to him, precisely why he took a tabla to Germany. This six-footer curly haired gora danced with eunuchs when Mohit’s son was born. The resultant one hour German film Buddhas Bergwuste captures above charm with chant Om Mani Padme Hum ringing in background. Shown on ZDF Channel to eight million European viewers, it’s often broadcast on Discovery Channel. Peter donated four and a half lakh rupees to a Tibetan school in Tabo for which his little German students made and sold dolls. Both Mohit and Peter pioneers in their fields, opened doors of adventure tourism, rekindling interest in Himachal’s enthralling high mountainous tribal valleys, whose entry was once sealed to foreigners and Indians, for around forty years. Indeed, wanderlust has no barriers, east or west. |
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