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Mekong magnificent obsession In
the last thirty years, four writers of travel and exploration have
endeared a vast cross - section of readers the world over. Eric Newby’s
narratives of routine encounters laced with subtle humour in A
Short Walk in the Hindu-Kush won him a huge readership. Next on
the scene came Bruce Chatwin whose first book In Patagonia was
undoubtedly the work of a born, gifted writer. A pity that death
snatched him young; a year before he was even fifty. All his three
books won recognition: In Patagonia, a prestigious first book
award, the next became a Hollywood film and the third was short-listed
for the Booker! John Keay and Peter Hopkirk are both engaged in
writing on the history of exploration in the nineteenth century. John
Keay was attracted especially by the explorers of the Himalayas and
made his debut with When Men and Mountains Meet in the 1970s
followed two years later with The Gilgit Game. He moved on to narrate
this history in its entirety with The explorers of the Western
Himalayas in the 1980s. Mad About the Mekong is the latest
from John Keay, recreating the dreams, tribulations, treachery,
success and tragedy concerning the exploration of the Mekong river by
the French in 1866-68. Was this exploration exceptional and why should
any one want to read about it? Well, John Keay has little difficulty
to provide an answer because he has had access to the most vivid and voluminous account written by Francis Garnier for the French Govt in
1869-70. And Delaporte, an outstanding artist who was especially
included in the team left paintings and sketches of excellent merit in
the hundreds. In order to understand at first hand the obsession of
the French explorers with the Mekong, John Keay and wife Julia teamed
up to navigate the river for about 600 km upstream of Saigon, covering
in one week using modern crafts where the explorers mostly in
indigenous boats had taken over two months! Now John Keay has
fashioned all this material and personal experience into a vibrant
narrative which seduces the reader at the very first page both with
its fluency and sense of anticipation. In one of his other books, India
Discovered, John Keay calls the 19th Century the Age of
Exploration. The Americas, the Poles, the African Continent, the
Middle East and South Asia all had been playgrounds of explorers.
Where SE Asia was concerned, the French alone had maintained a token,
low key presence. To consolidate that French presence, was born this
idea to explore the Mekong for navigation upto where it entered Yunan,
for commerce with China. If possible to explore it all way to its
source in Tibet and in the process bring all of Thailand, Cambodia,
Laos and Vietnam under French influence. In other words, sow the seeds
for the eventual creation of the French Indo-China. The Mekong was
considered the "Wildest of the world’s great rivers and until
1998 the Mekong boasted of not a single bridge across it, let alone a
city on its banks." From its source some 500 km NW of Chamdo in
Tibet, the Mekong flows for nearly 4,800 km upto Saigon. As the French
set out to explore it upstream it involved getting through "the
equatorial forests of Cambodia and Laos, to climb from the badlands of
Burma onto blizzard swept tundra along the China-Tibet border".
The Expedition had set out on two naval gun-boats but barely 50 km
upstream because of unnegotiable cataracts they had to be abandoned
for smaller steamers. Another 60 km they too had to be relieved by 20
country boats. Because of the ever changing hydro-geology of the
Mekong river-bed the Expedition changed to smaller local river crafts
almost every 40 km and in John Keay’s words "when boats got
smaller and river more impetuous, they took to jungle, riding
elephants, bullock carts and horses, mostly they sloshed through knee
deep mud festooned with leeches". These frequent interruptions
proved a boon to Delaporte the artist who painted and sketched the
Mekong and life around it with gay abandon. He was obviously a man of
refined sensitivity as all his sketches and paintings show-case only
the very best of the ancient SE Asian art and architecture and
refinement and culture of its inhabitants. On the first sighting of
Angkor Wat, it was Delaporte who called it "the Budhist Notre
Dame.. more like a living fairy tale" and he goes on to depict
that in his sketches. Garnier, the Deputy leader and the chronicler
wrote of Angkor Wat: "Perhaps no where else in the world, has
such an imposing mass of stone been arranged with more sense of art
and science...a spark of sheer genius....what grandeur and at the same
time what unity..." Garnier’s narrative and Delaporte’s art
together resurrected Angkor Wat from ruin and decay to restoration and
eventually a World Heritage status. The expedition found that
Vientian, the ancient capital of Thailand was also mostly a heap of
ruins by then. So they had non of the ceremonial welcome which was
accorded to Von Wuystorff in 1600 AD, recounted thus by John Keay:"
the most magnificent walled city in all of SE Asia.... He was
conducted upriver in a fleet of royal pirogues and then... a
procession of 3,000 richly caparisoned elephants and a like number of
the king’s body guard... one elephant was solely for carrying the
vast ewer of solid gold in which his letter of accredition was
deposited...!" What a refined civilisation and what riches! The
Mekong was for ever challenging the perseverance of the explorers. But
neither history nor the locals had prepared them about the sheer
immensity of the Khon Falls, the third largest in the world and "
when in flood, probably the largest. Niagra has about a 1/4 of their
volume and Victoria Falls only an 8th." The River had proved
un-navigable especially for substantive commerce. It would have been
logical to call off the expedition at this stage itself but the
obsession of getting as far up-stream as possible, the undeclared
deeper political grand design and the desire to enter China via a
route that no white man yet had, outweighed all pragmatic
considerations. A century later, when Ruth Padel scanned the Mekong
forests along 400 km of the river, for evidence of tiger she found
none. There was little of any wildlife altogether. Little wonder
that Garnier was to record that,".... each bend of the
Mekong...came to possess me like a monomania. I was mad about the
Mekong...." In all, the Expedition covered 11,000 km, surveyed
and mapped 6,000 km of virgin territory, chartered the precise course
of the Mekong river upto Jingbhong where it enters Chinese Yunan, that
is approximately half its length and recorded all its tributaries. The
Mekong explorers had "out-marched David Livingston and out-mapped
HM Stanley". Sir Roderick Murchison, President of the Royal
Geographic Society, London when presenting its Gold medal to Garnier
called the French venture," one of the most remarkable and
successful explorations of the 19th Century... But it was the sheer
scale of the thing that was the hardest to take in." Basking in
the glory of deserved recognition, Garnier got married. They had a
year old child when the Mekong ‘monomania’ engulfed him all over
again. So he was gone to Peking, this time to get to the source of the
Mekong in Tibet first and then work down the river to Saigon! he led
himself quite unnecessarily into an armed skirmish before setting out
for Chamdo and perished unsung in a nameless muddy ditch. His wife had
his body laid to rest in France but there is no monument to remember
him by, neither in Saigon nor in France. Strange are the ways of
destiny. (Mad about the Mekong by John Keay. Harper
Collins)
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