Food Talk
Kulfi is cool

The word kulfi derives from kufla, a lock, and seems apt as it is indeed kept in a mini-metal cell, shaped like a cone, writes Pushpesh Pant

IF legend and foodlore are to be given credence, it was the Mughal-e-Azam Akbar the Great who inspired the ‘creation’ of kulfi—the mother of all frozen desserts. Although the emperor was not a die-hard foodie, he did like to keep his cool during the scorching summer. Water for his consumption was obtained from a cool tributary of Ganga flowing in the Himalayas and cooled with ice brought from Chood Chandanidhar, in present day Himachal Pradesh.

It is quite possible that the shahi cook was commissioned to provide some sweet relief. Western food historians would do well to remember that this was more than a couple of centuries before George Washington staked his claim to inventing ice cream

CHEF’S SPECIAL

Ingredients

Milk 2 litres

Sugar 100 gm

Green cardamoms (seeds only crushed) four

A small pinch of kesar (soaked in a tbsp

of rosewater)

Pista (slivers) 6-8

Method

Boil the milk in a thick-bottomed pan till it is reduced to 1/4 of the original volume. Remove from heat, allow to cool and stir the sugar in. Pour in moulds and sprinkle over with rosewater drenched kesar, pista slivers and crushed cardamom. Seal the moulds with dough, after capping them and refrigerate to set. Remove from moulds halve and serve on a bed of falooda (boiled thick sevian) or with fresh fruits of choice. When plain Jane kulfi is mastered, you can try your hand at fruit based more exotic kulfi by blending pulp and sliced fruit like mangoes, strawberries and kiwi fruit with condensed milk. Just remember to reduce the quantity of sugar accordingly.

The word kulfi derives from kufla, a lock, and seems particularly apt, as the cool confection is indeed kept imprisoned in a mini-metal cell shaped like a cone. Traditionally, kulfi is served with faluda-unsweetened vermicelli— the noodles that allegedly were brought to India by the intrepid Italian traveller Marco Polo.

These serve a dual purpose: the teeth are saved from a traumatic icy encounter, and the sweetness can be tempered as per individual taste. In addition an interesting textural counterpoint is provided. The most common varieties available in the public domain are kesar-pista, badam-elaychi and it was left to Jiggs to dazzle late Princess Diana and Prince Charles (in happier times in the royal couple’s life) with an inspired combo-kulfi called ‘Scoop Lady Di’ combining rose and sandal.

Since he has scaled other heights creating fruit kulfis not restricting himself to Hapuz but embracing phirang imports like kiwi, strawberry and what not. Those who accuse him of westoxication, he shuts up by retorting that Shahenshah Akbar would have certainly approved.

We on our part are exceptionally partial to the matka kulfi that is marketed by good friend Arvind Kapur of Agra, the scion of Madhu Ice Cream clan. The miniature earthen pitcher-like pots draped in colourful fabric sure beat any kulfi on the seekh. His stuff is closer we feel to the
unalloyed original conception: richly creamy, frozen but not frigid, a whisper of sweetness and just a whiff of some alluring aroma not overburdened with dried fruits and nuts. Faluda is easily dispensed with in this case.

Many health-conscious persons avoid this noble native dessert because they are apprehensive about the (un) hygeinic conditions where it is produced. Contrary to prevailing misconception, kulfi is not difficult to prepare at home. All you require is the desire, the will and of course the moulds.

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