food talk
Meat of the matter

Dahi is a wonderful tenderiser and used as a marinade does wonders for meat, says Pushpesh Pant

There are many delightful non-vegetarian dishes that never seem to get their due. Once upon a time these were staple fare encountered frequently at home and elsewhere. But times have changed and one misses these dishes that are never served in a restaurant, have disappeared even from the dhaba menus and not many cook these at home anymore.

Dahi gosht and nimbu gosht fall in this category. Neither recipe has pretensions of being the crowning glory of the dastarkhwan but both are immensely satisfying—back to basics kind—home fare. A very welcome change from the run of the mill shahi or otherwise always tasting the same qormas concocted with the help of the old faithful packaged meat masala.

Not very long ago you could order dahi meat in the eateries in Old Delhi or in the hole-in-the-wall outlets in Lucknow but at such places too these are now endangered species.

DAHI GOSHT

Method Clean and wash well the mutton. Blend the dahi with garlic-ginger paste, powdered spices and salt. Marinate the meat in this for at least three hours. Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan and put the whole spices in it; when these begin to change colour put the mutton along with the marinade. Bring to boil, reduce heat to low medium and cover. Uncover and stir regularly. If using pressure, raise to high flame and remove excess liquid after the meat is done to taste. Garnish with fresh green corriander.

We were first introduced to these by ‘professor’ Sahni, gifted teacher of history in Delhi University, a die-hard foodie and an extraordinary cook. We were camping in Bhowali that summer and after days of pahari veg diet were dying for meat-sheat. The problem was that while the local butcher could after cajoling and coercion provide reasonable cuts of meat the bazar didn’t have a single shop stocking stuff required to cook a half way decent qorma and kaliya. We were quite a few friends but not many were inclined to exert or share the chores of peeling and grinding onions and garlic in bulk. This is when chacha Sahni volunteered to man the kitchen. Nimbu gosht came as a mouth-watering starter and dahi gosht followed to dazzle us soon after. Since then we have tasted meat cooked with dahi a few more times but nothing has matched the magic of the ‘original’.

As Prof Sahni explained to a satiated captive audience that day, dahi is a wonderful tenderiser and used as a marinade does wonders for meat. His recipe dispensed with onions and saves the cooks from tearful eyes. A delightful hint of sourness contributed by yogurt is quite welcome and the gravy has an attractive natural creaminess. Another bonus is reduced fat content. The dish tastes best when slow cooked but if pressed for time you can safely use the trusted pressure cooker.

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