Food Talk
Chill out the desi way
There is more to life with tall, cool, sweet summer drinks than fizzy foreign or local colas, says Pushpesh Pant

When summer comes, can ‘cola wars’ be far behind? Coke and Pepsi are traditional rivals who slug it out ritualistically whenever the mercury shoots up; and riding the tidal wave of globalisation, the two giants seem to have all but annihilated native competition. Thumbs Up survives somehow but its old thunder is barely audible. And, who today recalls the patriotic Double Seven representing the taste of liberation of India from the tyranny of Emergency?

But we digress. There is more to life with tall, cool, sweet summer drinks than fizzy foreign or local colas. No, we are not talking about tetra-pack bricks brimming over with fruit drinks and sugar-laced juices. The realm of Indian sherbets is a many-splendoured universe. Just look at the vibgyorous array: rose red gulab, emerald green khus, yellow bel, violet phalsa and white thandai.

These rehydrants were made with hundred per cent natural ingredients and one could guzzle gallons without worrying ourselves sick about carcinogenic synhetic colours and added artificial flavours. Then there are aam ka paana, saunf ka sherbet prepared to celebrate Ganga Dussehra.

On the northern extremity of our land, Uttaranchal tempts us with scarlet- hued rhododendron drink while Kerala, deep down south, boasts of Sasarpilla sherbet—decidedly an acquired taste.

Ingredients

Bel patthar (medium sized) one
Sugar 4 tbsp
Water 1 cup

Method
Break open the fruit, remove seeds, scoop out the pulp and carefully remove fibers. Mash well, pass through a piece of muslin or soup seive, add the sugar dissolved in a cup of water and stir to mix well. Store in a bottle for use as required; please remember this sherbet—exquisite in aroma and of delicate taste—has a short shelf life. Preferably refrigerate. 1:4 is the usual ratio of dilution that may be adjusted according to personal taste.

Sherbat-e-labgir is mentioned by Ibn Batuta as the sweet cold drink that was served as an apertif at the imperial banquets during the reign of Sultan Muhammad bin Tughlaq. Ever since these native soft drinks have cast their spell on the children of the soil and visitors alike. Nor should the West forget that the sorbet that cleanses the palate betwixt courses in fine dining is descended from oriental sherbet.

It is a pity that we have fallen easy prey to seductive advertising and forgotten all about our own rich heritage. No one prepares sherbet at home, even shikanjavi, traditional lemonade, has been vanquished by instant nimbu-pani concocted half-heartedly following shameful short-cuts.

Bottled desi sherbet market is dominated by Big Daddy Rooh Afza. The landmark eatery Lakshmi Mishthana Bhandar at Jaipur has for years catered to a niche market pining for the homemade taste of phalon ka sherbet like phalsa and lichee. It is only recently that Mishrambu from Varanasi and Haldiram have registered their presence via old-fashioned syrups.

Most of us have forgotten the taste of ghar ke sherbet full of natural goodness of seasonal fruit and free from dubious additives. We have great pleasure in sharing with our readers an easy recipe and we are sure that once hooked they will be rearing to try more complicated stuff soon. Incidentally, bel is strongly commended by ayurveda as a cure for heat-related stomach disorders.

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