Onward to Amarnath

Every year, in the months of June, July and August, thousands of pilgrims brave difficult terrain and inclement weather to catch a glimpse of the holy cave where Shiva grants darshan to the faithful in the form of a natural ice-lingam. Rohit Kansal on the pilgrimage scheduled to begin on June 11

HAVE you ever wondered how an icy Shiv lingam gets naturally formed in the holy cave of Amarnath or how the lingam waxes and wanes with the moon or how it attains its full form and height on the night of the Shravan Purnima?

Situated in a narrow gorge in the Lidder valley in Anantnag district of Kashmir, the cave shrine of Amarnath is perhaps one of the most popular pilgrimage destinations in India, and also the most challenging.

The cave, at an altitude of 3,962 metres above sea level, is located 140 km to the north-east of Srinagar. Legend has it that Shiva recounted to Parvati the secret of creation and immortality in this cave. Unknown to them, a pair of mating pigeons (or doves) overheard the secret, attained immortality and are ever present in this cave, their eternal abode. Sighting a pair of white pigeons in the cave by pilgrims is therefore considered to be highly auspicious.

Swami Vivekananda, who visited the cave in 1898, suggested that it was first discovered by a party of shepherds, who accidentally entered it while searching for their flocks. A local legend, however, traces the discovery to a Muslim Gujjar shepherd, Buta Mallik, who was led to the cave by a sadhu, believed to be Shiva himself.

Another legend has it that the valley of Kashmir was once a huge lake. When the sage Kashyap drained this lake, the cave and the lingam were discovered by sage Bhringesh who was then traversing the Himalayas. According to Bhringesh Samhita, Bhringesh was given a sceptre by Shiva for protection.

The cave shrine finds mention in numerous religious and historical texts. The Shiv Purana mentions it and a Sanskrit treatise, Amarkatha, gives details of the myths and legends associated with the yatra as well as its significance. Kalhana’s 12th century opus Rajatarangni contains details of the shrine as does Abul Fazl’s Ain-i-Akbari. Among the recent works, Walter Lawrence’s authoritative work, The Valley of Kashmir also contains references to the Amarnath shrine and details of the yatra. The best-known visitor to the shrine was Adi Shankaracharya who wound his way up to the holy cave over a thousand years ago.

Swami Vivekananda who visited it in 1898 is believed to have fallen into a deep trance and received from Shiva, the boon of Ichha Mrityu here. Swami Ramtirath too visited this shrine.

Since the cave is at a height of over 13,000 ft and the area remains snowbound most of the year, the pilgrimage is possible only for a short time during the summer. Traditionally, the yatra used to be conducted in the period intervening Guru Purnima and Shravan Purnima—roughly corresponding to the months of July and August. Accordingly, the most auspicious traditional worship with the Chari Mubarak used to be on Raksha Bandhan or Shravan Purnima- when the lingam was supposed to have attained its maximum height. However, in view of the heavy rush of devotees, the yatra has been allowed to be carried out for an extended period of two months since last year and this year’s yatra is scheduled to begin on June 11, 2006.

The traditional route to the cave is via Pahalgam, nearly 96 km south of Srinagar, pilgrims taking this route usually accomplish the return journey in about five days. At 7,500 ft above sea level, Pahalgam, literally meaning the Valley of the Shepherds, is a breathtakingly beautiful meadow crisscrossed by gurgling streams and surrounded by dense forests. The distance to the cave from Pahalgam is 46 km. However, vehicular traffic is possible till Chandanwari—located 16 km north of Pahalgam. The route lies along the river Lidder meandering in the valley below. Situated at 9,500 ft, Chandanwari is usually the first night halt for pilgrims. The distance to the cave is now only 30 km but it is to be covered entirely on foot or on ponies and palanquins.

The first day’s trek from Chandanwari onwards is a 12 km walk through spectacular virgin countryside through the 11,000 ft high Pissu top. The highlight of the day’s trek is the incredibly beautiful lake nestling among seven snow-clad peaks representing as it were, the head of a hooded snake—Sheshnag. A dip in the Sheshnag lake (12,500 ft) is considered to be holy. The second day’s trek comprises a distance of another 12 km. It ascends up to the exalted Mahagunas (The Great Serpent) Pass at 14,800 ft and then descends to the beautiful meadows of Panchtarni (literally, the valley crisscrossed by five streams). Legend has it that Shiva was performing the Tandava nritya here when his massive matted locks became undone and five streams of the Ganga fell to the ground here. At 11,500 ft. Panchtarni is also the last camp en route to the cave and the 6-km walk the next morning takes devotees to the cave of Amarnath.

Situated at nearly 13,000 ft above sea level, the naturally formed cave is about 50 feet long and 25 feet wide. The natural ice lingam covers the extreme right of the cave and is formed by water drops falling from the top of the cave and at its glorious best, the lingam can be over 8 feet high and over 7 feet in diameter. Two smaller structures of ice are located to the left of the lingam and are believed to represent Parvati and Ganesh respectively. A number of white birds can be seen in the cave and the faithful have reported seeing a pair of white pigeons.

The traditional yatra route via Pahalgam-Chandanwari involves a trek of over 30 km and includes at least two night-halts en route. Therefore, another route via Srinagar-Sonamarg is increasingly being used by pilgrims. From Srinagar, devotees reach Baltal through a link road which takes off from kilometre 95 on the Srinagar-Leh highway near Sonmarg. There is another link road from Baltal to Domel (2 km). A very steep track, nearly 9 km long, and with sharp and high gradients leads devotees from Domel (9,577 ft) to Sangam (11,808 ft) via Brarimarg (13,120 ft). From Sangam, it is a climb of about 2 km to a point where both the Pahalgam and the Baltal routes converge. From there to the cave is a climb of about another 2 km. On a good, fair-weather day, devotees who start early can complete their darshan and return to the base camp at Baltal on the same day. This is what makes this route popular and alluring for some devotees. The Baltal route is shorter but steeper and the journey track is narrow and dangerous at places. However, the Shri Amarnath Ji Shrine Board (SASB) and the state government are continuously engaged in efforts to improve this route and make it better and safer.

The Amarnath pilgrimage is probably one of the most difficult pilgrimages in India. A journey to the cave of Amarnath is an ineffable experience. The journey through virgin territory, raw yet ineluctably beautiful scenery, represents an intuitive and inward journey.

Getting there The difficulty of terrain, the unpredictable climate, the ever- increasing number of devotees and the fragile security situation all necessitate the management and organisation of the yatra. In view of all these constraints, the Shri Amarnath Ji Shrine Board (SASB), a statutory, autonomous Board, and the Government of Jammu and Kashmir play an active role in the organisation and coordination of the yatra. Various social and religious organisations supplement official efforts by setting up langars and other facilities on the yatra route. The SASB imposes certain limits on the number of pilgrims that can be allowed for the yatra on a single day. Devotees would do well to consult and scrupulously adhere to the various notifications regarding registration and other formalities prescribed by the SASB and publicised through the media. The official website of the SASB (www.shriamarnathjiishrine.com) contains useful information besides provision for on-line registration. Useful information can also be found on the official websites of the J&K Government (www.jammukashmir.nic.in) and J&K Tourism (www.jktourism.org)

Tips for the traveller Yatris going on a pilgrimage to the cave shrine need to familiarise themselves with some dos and don’ts. It is advisable to remember that the cave is located at a height of about 13,000 ft and that access to the shrine involves treks of 20-30 km in difficult geographical and climactic conditions. All potential devotees must get themselves medically examined to ensure that they are free of heart, respiratory or other diseases and fit to endure the rigours of terrain and climate. They must equip themselves with adequate warm clothes, sweaters, gloves, caps, wind cheaters, a light raincoat or small umbrella, appropriate walking shoes, walking sticks, torch lights etc. The weather on the route can be unpredictable and it can be very cold in the hills even when it is searing hot in the plains. Besides adequate warm clothes and goggles, a bottle of vaseline or cold cream is helpful in the biting cold. Women should avoid sarees and instead wear salwar kameez, trousers or jeans. Those adopting the traditional Pahalgam route must make arrangements for their night stay en route or carry sleeping bags. Although basic medical aid is available en route, devotees must carry a small first-aid kit containing all basic medicines along. While langars run by social service organisations do supply free food at various points en route, it is still advisable to carry some ready eatables such as biscuits, dry fruit, roasted chana (gram) etc. as well as water. Weather is also a crucial element in the yatra and pilgrims must check that that no rain, snow or storms are predicted before they start out from Baltal or Pahalgam. In case of any complaint against the shopkeepers or any other service provider, pilgrims can seek the help of the police or the SASB staff. The SASB has banned plastics and devotees should avoid littering the track. A number of service providers arrange for helicopter sorties between Srinagar and the cave and between Baltal and the cave. There is usually a heavy demand for these services and devotees are advised to ascertain the rates, timings, schedules and other details from the authorities and make adequate booking arrangements beforehand.

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