Food Talk
Flavour of Sindhi biryani

This community has managed to preserve its language and recipes despite voluntary or enforced migration, writes Pushpesh Pant

One of the most exciting developments in the Indian food world has been the ‘discovery’ of sub-regional and sub-ethnic cuisines. There always have been flag bearers of Kashmir, Rajasthan, Goa, Kerala and Bengal to dispute the fine dining claims of Awadh and Hyderabad; more recently the continuing exploration of the land’s culinary heritage has reclaimed other gems from treasure troves like Malvani and Chettinad. It is surprising that in this context Sindh continues to be overlooked.

Most of us have only a vague idea of that it is Sindh that has given its name to Hind. Only occasionally does some super patriot wake up to the fact that the word occurs in our national anthem oblivious of the reality that post-Partition Sind belongs now exclusively to Pakistan. Indus Valley civilisation is encountered and forgotten in school, and our experience of Sindhi delights is limited to lusty singing of bhajan damadam mast kalandar dedicated to mystic saint Jhulelal.

This was the sprawling seductive tract of land that had famously prompted Richard Burton—the swashbuckling, trend breaking, gender bending translator of the Arabian Nights—to wire punning naughtily to his superiors, ‘I have Sind!’ That was 19^th century and the province of Sind has been transformed almost beyond recognition.

The small Sindhi community has a truly global presence and is respected for its pioneering spirit, intrepid trading skills and cosmopolitan tastes. Like the Parsis they have produced gifted doctors, architects, lawyers, designers, musicians, educators and social workers exerting an influence far greater than the numbers.

The Sindhi diaspora has managed to preserve its language and recipes despite the vicissitudes of voluntary or enforced migration. Sayal Gosht and Sindhi Kadhi are ethnic specialties that can rival many a better-known delicacy. Once you try their very different biryani—more colour and flavourful than aromatic—we are confident that you will cook and enjoy it more and oftener than any rice n meat combo.

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