Food Talk
Many ways with fish

This unusual blend of bonda and kofta shows influences from both North and South, says Pushpesh Pant

It is said that the smell of fish is sufficient to satisfy a Bengali diner who can’t do without the daily fix of maach. Buying it fresh is a ritual that has survived changing times and mores. Literary works are replete with interesting references to fish. Different species are relished in different seasons and merits of one over the other can inspire connoisseurs to spend hours in metaphysical debate.

DOI MAACH Method Mix all the ingredients listed for marinade, rub gently over the fish and let it marinate for about an hour. Heat mustard oil in a thick-bottomed pan till the oil smokes. Remove from heat and let it cool. Return to heat. Add fish and fry till golden brown. Add 10 tbsp of water; slowly stir in yogurt and salt. Stir and simmer until fish is tender to taste. There should be some gravy. Garnish with resins if preferred. Serve with rice.

There are myriad ways in which fish is prepared in Bengal — bhaja, jhol, jhal, kaliya, cutlets and of course with daal and subzi. The variety of fish used for these delicacies is mind-boggling ranging from the illich at the top of the heap to rui, mangur, chingri, betaki, chital and what not.

Fish is fried, served in curry with a thick or thin soup, comes steamed, at times smothered with pungent mustard as well as draped in gentle creamy sauce. For those of us who stay upcountry in the hinterland denied by birth the bounty of meandering rivers and pukhur (small ponds) ‘attached’ to the village dwellings, the problem of such plenty is difficult to manage. (Not to forget the ‘bothersome’ bones that Babur the founder of Mogul dynasty kept complaining about when referring to his encounters with Indian fish!) It is only along the coast that ‘fruits of the sea’, catch of the day engenders similar culinary excitement but arguably the recipes from Bengal are easier to manage and even if you have not been handed down any family recipes by the grandmother you can master half a dozen quick fixes to dazzle guests with regional classics without much trouble.

Doi maach has long been our personal favourite. It can be enriched with a resin garnish if you wish to give it a festive look and the recipe is very user friendly. Mother had picked up simple this recipe from a friend during her days in Gurudeb’s Shantiniketan and for some odd reason she made it with mahasheer — maybe this was the easiest to obtain in the small hill town where we then lived. Sarson bata is a bit of an acquired taste but everyone can enjoy doi maach. You can turn out an impressive doi maach with the old faithful rohu (rui) - cut in darnes. Just ensure that the fish being used is fresh and firm.

HOME