Food Talk
Delicacy of Deccan

This unusual blend of bonda and kofta shows influences from both North and South,
says Pushpesh Pant

Bonda is an old friend from our hostel years — it was almost a staple sustaining us when the pocket was light towards the end of the month. A welcome change from the ubiquitous bhajiya-pakora the bonda had a mild whiff of exotica. It was touted as a south Indian specialty though Maharashtrian mates claimed it as a clone of their own batata vada.

It made a great quick sandwich pressed flat betwixt two slices of bread as a filling and what was served in the canteen or in the mess was, we discovered in the course of time, a bland apology for the real dainty- aromatic and spicy stuff consumed at home.

For some odd reason we have been missing it much lately. It is beyond our comprehension why it has joined the tribe of endangered species — at least in the North. We pounced upon the tempting golden-hued balls at a party when spotted and you can imagine our (pleasant) surprise when the palate was greeted by no, not the familiar potato but piquant mince with a delightful crunch. A non-vegetarian bonda — what an innovation!

The hostess did not claim intellectual property rights for the ‘invention’ and informed us that this is an old Hyderabadi classic that goes by the name of garlay. It used to be quite a popular starter when people had the leisure to attempt and offer something novel when guests were entertained at home. This unusual blend of bonda and kofta once again showcases the genius of denizens of the Deccan to imbibe and synthesise influences from North and South.

GARLAY

Method

Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan and fry the onions till golden brown. Add ginger and garlic and continue stir-frying. Now add salt, turmeric and chilli powders with three quarters of the chopped coriander, mint and green chillies. Add the mince and fry until the moisture evaporates. Pour about half cup of hot water, cover and cook until the mince is done to taste and there is no excess water. Squeeze the lemon juice over the meat.

2. Sift flour with a little salt, chilli powder and mix some water to obtain very soft dough. Heat oil in the pan. Take about one tbsp of the mixture in your hand. Shape it into a round ball and deep-fry it in the heated oil. Repeat for the remaining batter. Take care that these balls are not over-fried or acquire a dark brown hue.

3. Allow these mini balls to cool then coarsely pound with the prepared mince to blend. Add the remaining chopped green chillies, coriander and mint and lemon juice. Take a little of this mixture and gently roll it into a ball. Repeat the process till all the mixture is used up.

4. Take remaining gram flour, mix a little water to it to obtain medium thin batter. Sprinkle a little salt and baking powder.

5. Dip the prepared balls into the batter and deep fry, in batches, till these are rich gold brown in colour. Serve hot with any green or red chutney.

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