Wonder at Bijapur
Usha Bande

"The architectural splendours of Bijapur are without question deserving of the kind of appreciation usually reserved for Delhi and for Agra. It would take days to see everything worthy to be seen in this vast city-fortress`85 and anyone who visits Bijapur will see some of the very best that India has to offer."
— Virginia Fass

Bijapur, a tiny historical town, is all geared up to welcome its visitors with a display of its architectural grandeur. There is something for everyone—tourists, archaeologists, historians, art lovers, architects, and students of culture, religious studies and literature.

The beauty of the architecture of Gol gumbaz, 350 years old, lies in the synthesis of Muslim and Hindu influences. As one move’s across the town from one monument to the other, your guide may aptly point out how the Muslim concept of mehrab (arch) is supported by Hindu floral designs, how the sculpted gateways and facades, the intricate patterns and woodwork bear testimony to the secular character of the builders and rulers.

The foundation of this historic city was laid during the reign of the Chalukayas of Kalyani between 10th and 11th centuries. They called it ‘Vijayapura’ or the city of victory from which comes its present name Bijapur. In the 11^th century, the then Chalukya ruler built a small fort covering seven villages. Bijapur came under the Khiljis in 1300 and later the Tughlaqs occupied it till 1457 when Khwaja Mahmud Gawan annexed it to the Bahmani kingdom.

In 1489, Yusuf Adil Shah, its Governor under the Bhamani king, declared his independence and established the Adil Shahi dynasty that ruled from 1489 to 1686. After the death of Ali Adil Shah II, the Mughals, the Peshwas and, subsequently, the British ruled over it. In the Deccan, this tiny kingdom remained at the hub of various political activities but whenever the Adil Shahi rulers found peaceful time, they took up construction of monuments, gardens and water-works and tried to make the city not only beautiful but also secure and comfortable. The 50 mosques, more than 20 tombs and a number of palaces speak well of the Adil Shahi rulers as builders.

The Gol Gumbaz symbolises Bijapur. This huge historical monument is one of the most famous buildings in South Asia. This semi-circular dome, often compared with St. Paul’s in London in terms of size, and to the Roman Pantheon for the width of its tomb chamber, should be the dynasty’s last principal structure. Muhammad Adil Shah started the construction work in 1626 when he ascended the throne. Intending it to be his own tomb, he called it simply Gol Gumbaz, the round dome, but when it was completed in 1656, it attracted attention for its formidable size and the awe-inspiring beauty of its architecture.

Architecturally, it is a simple structure: a huge round dome with four octagonal minarets. But what makes it incredible is the massive size of the dome standing without support of pillars. The four towers lead to the top to an open gallery.

From there you enter the legendary "Whispering Gallery" that runs round the inside central dome. It is 21 metres from the floor. Guides often insist that the real name of the dome is Bol Gumbaz. But this probably has no historical evidence. Of the four towers, only two are open now – from the one you climb up the seven storeys and from the other you get down. The foundation of this imposing structure rests on flat bedrock that has kept it virtually intact.

The interior, octagonal in shape, covers an area of approximately 1700 sq. metres. The dome above is one of the largest unsupported structures in the world. The outside gallery provides superb views of the city. Along the outside circumference of the dome, on a clear day, you can see the wall surrounding the city and the several monuments that lie within it.

Even the slightest whisper generates an echo and a loud clap will echo clearly, at least nine times. The best time, if you really wish to hear a whisper is early morning. Gol Gumbaz opens at 6 am and you could be there soon after that. The gardens around the monument are well maintained but when we visited the place we found the entrance all dug up for beautification for the forthcoming celebrations. The plan is to make the entrance comparable to the entrance of the Taj. There is an archaeological museum within the walls worth a look.

The Gol Gumbaz is not visible from the entrance as are other Mughal and Muslim structures. There is a huge but artistic ornamental gateway in front of the Gol Gumbaz. Its facade has two tiers of arches, a wide central projection and corner buttresses. You cross it and come to another obstruction, a simpler block. The Gumbaz is visible only after you have crossed it. That is the reason why the Gumbaz can be photographed only from its backside or its eastern corner.

From Gol Gumbaz one could head straight to another magnificent building of Bijapur—the Jami Masjid and from thence to Ibrahim Rouza and the mosque, the most decorative structures of Bijapur.

Bijapur has much more to offer: Gagan Mahal, Bara Kaman (the 12 arches), Mehtar Mahal, Upari Burz, many masjids, rouzas, mosques and the legendary Malik-e-maidan, the formidable cannon made of five metals. The old city is fortified and has five gates. The city has extended much beyond these walls. As a modern city Bijapur may not impress one but as a living symbol of history, it is matchless.

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