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Mysore, a delightful destination full of compelling attractions, has in recent years often been upstaged by the much younger Bangaluru — the state capital and the much-hyped ‘Indian Silicon Valley’ constantly groaning under the painful weight of its ‘success’. There was a time, when Mysore was synonymous with fragrant sandalwood, gorgeous silks, colourfully caparisoned elephants, dazzling Dasehra celebrations and much more. A pleasant climb up the Chamundi Hill provides a breathtaking view of the city spread out till sight can scan, the gem-like palace standing out amidst plebian buildings. The Ranganthittu bird sanctuary, the evocative ruins of Sri Rangpattam on the island on Cauvery that once served as Tipu Sultan’s citadel continue to attract tourists like a powerful magnet. For lovers of food, Mysore is a Mecca of sorts — more a vegetarian’s paradise. Mysore Bonda figures prominently in the snacks menu of many a Madrasi eatery, and Mysore pak is one of the few genuine ‘southy’ sweets. The set dosai is a very special delicacy in this city — spongy and airy like a well-made pancake — a refreshingly different offering from the paper-thin crisp variety encountered at commercial outlets — masala or sada. The Mysore dosa are lined generously with tasty red chutney and the masala is subtler than the run of the mill stuff. But all that is a different story. We have always wondered about the local non-veg repast. Surely Tipu’s legacy extends beyond the historic sword and the Toy tiger that chewed British soldiers on command! Where are the lost culinary gems? We are happy to report that our sleuthing is slowly bearing fruit. At the King’s Court Hotel in Mysore we were served a Mysore Pulav that recalls biryani very different from the popular Hyderabadi version. Its lineage may not be pure princely — flavours of neighbouring Coorg and Kerala register their presence unmistakably — but we are not complaining. Enjoy.
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