CONSUMER RIGHTS
Mark of purity

Next time you buy silk, one of the strongest textile fibres, make sure that it carries the silk mark, observes Pushpa Girimaji

Till recently, if a consumer wanted to make sure that what is being sold as pure silk is really so, the only option was to take a few strands of the fabric and burn it — if it left a dark, beady residue, it meant that it was pure silk.

Fortunately, today a consumer need not go to such lengths to determine the authenticity of the fabric. All she or he has to do is to look for the silk mark logo, an artistic depiction of a butterfly with the words "silk mark" written below and be assured that what is being paid for is really pure natural silk.

Established in response to consumer demand for a seal of authenticity, the silk mark scheme is steadily gaining in popularity. The last time I wrote about it, the silk mark had just been launched. Today, you can actually see it on sarees and dresses in shops around the country. And the list of authorised users of the silk mark is lengthening. From Bangalore, Hyderabad, Kancheepuram, Chennai and Mumbai to Guwahati and Varanasi, the silk mark is spreading far and wide.

The Central Board, which is the apex body that advises the Central Government on all matters pertaining to the silk industry, established last year the Silk Mark Organisation of India (SMOI) to promote a quality seal for pure silk and thus was born the silk mark. Anyone who wishes to use the Silk Mark — manufacturers, weavers, retailers, exporters, silk cooperatives — has to first become a member of the SMOI. Any member can then become an authorised user by undergoing a specific training required for the purpose and then executing a licence agreement with the SMOI. Today, the SMOI boasts of over 300 members on its list.

Silk mark covers a variety of primary, intermediate and finished products such as raw silk, silk yarns, fabrics, sarees, ready-mades and silk carpets. It also covers all the four varieties of silk — the most common variety of silk — mulberry as well as non-mulberry or wild or ‘vanya’ silks : Tassar, Eri and Muga.

The characteristics of natural silk are its natural sheen, light weight, resilience and excellent drape. The other advantages of silk are its capacity to absorb moisture and its low static current generation. Silk is also one of the strongest of textile fibres and is durable. However, it is weak when wet, even though it regains the original strength once dry. Silk is also a poor heat conductor and is therefore warmer than cotton or linen and is, therefore, a good wear for winter. And unlike cotton, it is seldom affected by mildew. However it is not resistant to very strong light and very hot iron can scorch the fabric.

So the next time you buy pure silk, make sure that it carries the silk mark. And do not forget to get a cash receipt. Another advantage of the silk mark label is that in case of any complaint with the product, you can write to the SMOI, which acts as a facilitator for grievance redress, gets the product tested and in case the product is not up to the mark, ensures that the authorised user pays damages to the consumer.

Meanwhile, here are some tips on washing silk, given by the Central Silk Board: always wash silks in soft water. Add a pinch of borax or ammonia if the water is hard. Use a good neutral soap in the form of either flakes or solutions. Light detergents can be used in case the water is hard. But use lukewarm water. Rinse in warm water two to three times to remove all traces of soap. Add a few drops of citric acid to the final rinse in cold water. If you are not too sure about the colour fastness of the fabric, then soak for one to two hours in cold water to which a small amount of citric acid or acetic acid has been added. Always dry flat, in shade.

HOME