Food Talk
Pardanashin kebab

Pushpesh Pant gives us the recipe to make Bannu kebab that, despite its simplicity, poses a challenge

Method Rub the lamb pieces with the papaya paste, mixed with the chilli, ginger and garlic pastes together with salt, and let it rest for a couple of hours. Preferably overnight. Then coat these in the beaten egg. Sprinkle the pepper powder and pierce through a skewer. Grill over open charcoal grill/ sigri or roast in a pre-heated oven for about 10 minutes basting regularly with butter. Hang the skewer for another five minutes or so to allow excess of moisture to drain. Serve hot with roomali roti.

There is something beguiling about the Bannu kebab that sets it apart from all other equally tasty skewers. It appears with a translucent veil drawn across its visage and the alluring aroma preceding its debut from the charcoal grill hints at the sensuous delight that is about to follow.

Miyan Farouk designated his creation as pardanashin and in keeping with the Awadhi tradition of nazakat crafted the delicacy with boneless chicken. It was much later while researching the food along the legendary GT Road that we discovered that the real McCoy always is prepared with lamb pasanda and the patrons of this NWFP original don’t mind if the veil verges on opacity.

The rugged Pathans, as we all know, have always valued substance more than style. But make no mistake. Despite its simplicity, the kebab does pose a challenge. Make a slight error and you will have a botched up omelet wrap desperately trying to hold back rebellious tikkas.

The kebab derives its name from the town of Bannu situated in the heart of the ‘wild west’ of undivided India. This is where the Imperial British had to swallow their pride and allow the Afridi tribals to travel free on the railroad to ensure that the fare-paying passengers were not mauled and the gora sahibs sent to stand guard on Dara-e-Khyber were not unduly humiliated. The local gunsmiths continue to boast that they can replicate any gun within a couple of days—give and take a few hours—that is shown to them. Tandooriyas all over the land consider themselves exceptionally gifted and skilled if they manage to replicate their other produce— the Bannu kebab.

We were thrilled some months back when we discovered that Jehan—a small but very pleasant eatery in Greater Kailash II in South Delhi—had on its menu and served an outstanding Bannu kebab. Repeat visits left us convinced that the man at the grill may look like a Nepali, at heart he was a kabaili. Alas, the joy was short lived. Jehan has travelled to other world and once again we are left to our own devices. With a twinge we unveil the recipe.

HOME