Adventure lovers’ delight
Usha Bande

Hindu Shrines of the Western Himalayas
by Dr Ashok Jerath. Association for Litterateur, Folklorists and Artists (ALFA), Jammu. Pages 25l. Student edition Rs 700, library edition Rs 950.

The Himalayas, the abode of Gods, are like a deity in the Hindu pantheon. A pathway to heaven, these sublime mountains hold a unique place in the collective unconscious of Indians—as Devatma Himalaya, Giri-Raj Himalaya and the other manifestation of the Divine Being. Little wonder then that its lofty peaks and unfathomable valleys, deep jungles and tiny villages should be dotted with shrines, exuding an aura of religious fervour and spiritual grandeur.

Considering the difficult and often formidable topography of the region, it is well-nigh impossible for the people to know about all these temples or visit these. One usually settles for a quick, guided tour to the most famous places of worship. The wealth of temple art and architecture, the surrounding natural beauty and the profound mythological or historical relevance of shrines—big and well known as well as smaller and lesser-known—elude the visitors from outside the region.

Even within the region, a select few can venture out, for obvious reasons. In bringing out this book, Ashok Jerath has filled done great service to seekers, religious pilgrims, art lovers, curious trekkers and adventurous tourists.

Dr Ashok Jerath, Director, AIR, Shimla, is an adventurer, a lover of nature and a connoisseur of art. As an acclaimed art critic and expert on Himalayan art and culture, he has authored many books, research papers and articles. This volume, based on his travels and personal experiences, covers large parts of Uttaranchal, Himachal Pradesh, and some portion of Jammu and Kashmir.

The entire belt is strewn with temples dedicated to the great Gods like Vishnu, Shiva, Rama and Krishna to small gods that belong exclusively to the community and are nearer the heart of the masses; to local deities, the Naga Devtas and also the goddesses.

There are numerous shrines dedicated to Goddesses Durga and Kali and her myriad forms; of these the author describes at length the main seven Shaktipeethas—Naina Devi, Jwalaji, Vajreshwari, Chamunda, Kapaleshwari and others.

Pilgrimages have entailed travelling through the length and breadth of the country, and are a proof of our cultural and geographical unity. Jerath tracks the places of pilgrimages all through the Western Himalayas and supplements his information with sketches showing the old routes to the, so far, unapproachable shrines.

Cave temples are a unique feature of the mountain topography. One whole chapter is devoted to seven major cave temples, while the next is ascribed to the local gods. There is a mine of information about the local deities—Vasuki Naga, Mahu Naga and others—that speaks volumes for the Naga cult in the Himalayas. The deities even have the power to solve disputes and the decision of the Devta is invariably acceptable to the villagers. The awe so invoked acts as a deterrent to crimes.

The author acknowledges that early temples were but simple structures meant to establish the idol or image of the deity to guard its sanctity. As building art and architecture developed, the temples and temple complexes became more elaborate. Jerath highlights the architectural styles of temples in the Himalayan region. He elaborates on 10—Naagar, Dravid, Shikhra, mixed types, Bharmour style, pent roof style, pagoda type and a few more—each developed according to historical factors, geographical conditions and local designs.

The printing and publishing, though, leaves much to be desired. The ALFA is an Association of Litterateurs, Folklorists and Artists. One does not know their output so far though. However, the use of quality art paper could have brought the writers’ photographs of the temples, particularly of the inner panels, into sharp focus and enhanced the beauty of the book.

Nevertheless, as one keeps down the book, one is gripped by an urge to pack his knapsack and go trekking to savor the refreshing beauty of the area and the sanctity of the temples, hallowed by the peace and tranquillity of the sublime Himalayas.

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