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THIS golden yellow coloured silk is a unique product, the pride of Assam State and an integral part of the tradition and culture of that state. Muga silk is obtained from the silkworm, Antheraea Assamensis. These silkworms feed on the leaves of Som and Soalu trees, which grow in Assam. The muga silk, a high-value product, is used in weaving sarees, mekhlas (petticoat-like garment), and chaddars (wraps), etc. Technically, silk is made of proteins secreted in the fluid state by a silkworm. These silkworms feed on the selected food plants and spin cocoons as a protective shell to perpetuate their life. Silkworm has four stages in its life cycle viz., egg, caterpillar, pupa and moth. Silkworm eggs (popularly known as seeds) are laid out on the Som and Soalu leaves to hatch out into caterpillars about 2mm long. They grow rapidly, eat voraciously and end up about 30 mm long after four to five weeks. During this time, they change skins four times. After the final skin change straw frames are provided in which silkworms make its cocoon. Cocoon making takes further eight days. Man interferes this life cycle at the cocoon stage to obtain the silk, a continuous filament of commercial importance, used in weaving silk, the dream fabric. These silk worms yield a beautiful golden thread that is much sought after for its colour and sheen. It takes the silkworm another three to four days to transform into a pupa and another 15 days for the moth to emerge, but this is not allowed to take place for all. Muga silk is named after Assamese word "Muga" which indicates the amber (brown) colour of cocoon. It is popular for its natural golden colour, glossy fine texture and durability. Muga silk is hardy in character. It endures for years and improves with each washing. Considering that it takes two months to weave a saree and that it takes 1,000 cocoons to yield 125 gm of silk and that it takes about 725 gm to 1,000 gm for a saree, one can figure out why these creations are so expensive. The designs — woven or embroidered — show an amazing variety: trees, creepers, leaves, flowers, peacocks, birds and animals in stylised forms. Add to these the ethnic yet very modern geometric tribal motifs of the North-East states of India results in an unparalleled creation. The traditional colours like red, green and black provide a dramatic effect against the golden colour of the Muga fabric. The weavers have extended them to include colours like yellow, green, blue, beige, silver, coppery pink, brown and but the motifs remain traditional. Wedding sarees are adorned with gold and silver thread work. The looms are narrow, hence, the borders are woven separately and then stitched on, which is another facet special to the Assamese Muga saree. This also makes the saree heavy, formal, rich and exquisite. Sualkuchi, a small picturesque village close to Guwahati in Assam, is one of the world’s largest weaving villages of Muga silk and is referred to as "the Manchester of the East". Traditionally, girls from Assam would weave their own trousseau. Brides were often chosen for their weaving skills! This is not to say that every girl today weaves her own bridal dress but the bridal mekhla chaddar is a prized possession with most girls from Assam. A mekhla is a cross between a sarong and a lungi and the chadar is worn with a special crisscross pleat down the front to give it the elegance required to show off the exquisite weaves that typify Assamese creations. And the sarees — hand woven heavy gold silks with motifs that stand out in a three-dimensional effect, are equally exclusive. Legend has it that at one time, Muga silk was patronised only by the Royalty and common people were forbidden from wearing it. Even today, a good Assamese Muga silk saree could cost anywhere between Rs 8,000-Rs 20,000 or above. |
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