Food Talk
 Grab that crab

Crabs can enrich soups, salads and baked dishes, writes Pushpesh Pant

POOR crabs are much-maligned creatures. Who hasn’t heard the defamatory story about the "cussed crustaceans" who cease fighting, uniting for a fleeting instant only to pull back their comrade who has somehow managed to reach the top-of-the-rim and is about to escape from the life of misery in a crowded basket? Then, the poor species symbolises the dread disease the ‘Big C’ and what remains with us is the clawing fear and undeserved revulsion.

Ask any denizen of the coast how delicious is the treat these succulent sea (and sometimes land) dwellers provide?

The sharp claws that have inspired military geniuses like Field Marshall Rommell to invent brilliant tactics like "pincer movement of tanks on the battlefield to annihilate the enemy" are in fact repository of delicious, subtly aromatic flesh.

Chef’s special

Ingredients

Crabs 1 kg
Oil 3 tbsp
Mustard seeds 1 tsp
Fenugreek seeds (methi) 1 tsp
Medium-sized tomatoes (quartered) two
Green chillies (chopped) four
Cloves garlic, chopped five
Ginger, chopped 1" piece
Curry leaves, chopped 1 stalk
Salt 1 tsp
Lime-sized balls of seedless tamarind (soaked in 5 tbsp water) two

Mix together

Red chilli powder 3 tbsp
Coriander powder 1 tbsp
Turmeric powder ½ tsp
Water ¼ cup

Method

Clean the crabs and wash thoroughly. Heat oil in a pan and sprinkle in mustard seeds. When they start sputtering, add fenugreek and fry till fenugreek turns brown. Stir in spice paste and bring to boil. Add tomatoes, green chillies, garlic, ginger and curry leaves, and simmer for five minutes. Extract tamarind pulp, strain into pan and bring to boil. Mix in crabs and salt, cover pan and cook over low heat for 20 minutes. Remove and serve hot with steamed rice.

In continental cuisine, crabs enrich soups, salads, poached in court bullion to be eaten with mayonnaise and are, at times, served shelled with hard-boiled eggs even stuffed and baked au gratin.

There are some who are deterred from ordering crab in a restaurant because they do not wish to be exposed as unsophisticated diners unable to handle special table equipment (tongs) that is handed out to scoop out the tasty treasure.

Well, we have great pleasure in reassuring our readers that it is quite all right to use your hands without inhibitions when relishing this exotic delicacy and even snooty waiters at fine dining restaurants dare not raise their eyebrows. Finger bowls are routinely passed around afterwards.

Crabs cooked a la Indian are, of course, best enjoyed far less pompously. We have had a delightful lunch at the legendary ECR (East Coast Road) Dhaba after a scenic drive in to Chennai from Pondicherry feasting on crab chilli masala — delicately spiced despite the name, flakey and refreshing with green chillies and curry leaves, just a hint of the sambar symphony playing in distance. Nothing intrusive.

Moist enough to pair with an oven fresh naan — yes, this quintessentially southern eatery in the vicinity of the ancient port city Mamallapuram strives hard to justify the dhaba part of its name — and a worthy sidekick accompanying a more piquant gravy dish with rice.

Another plus point in favour of this dish is that it can be easily prepared with canned crabmeat.

However, our favourite remains a gem from the Kerala repertoire — the Njandu Kari prepared with coconut.

Mild and flavourful and at the same time simple and subtle — a recipe inviting you to fall hopelessly in love at first sight with the crabs.

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