Lots to cheer about

Lalitha Thiruvengadam describes her visit to Hennessey cellars

Wine cannot be sold until it has been aged for at least two years after distillation

Many have penned lines and characters involving the Irish whiskey; the double-large Jamesons, mean torts of Old Granddad, quick gulps of Bushmills. The drinking world lapped up the imagery of a no-nonsense, rough, virile, stolid drink; much like an Irishman.

I had heard about Hennessy cognac and knew something about the status it commands in the world of those fond of drinking. Hennessy is an Irish name and not fran ç ais. French liquor (and liqueur) is usually looked upon as soft, after-dinner liquid, or as warm-afternoon-lazy-by-the-stream wine. But, an Irish cognac? I somehow couldn’t imagine an Irishman drink, much less make, a cognac. Didn’t they like their drink rougher?

Generally, cognac can be described as "a dry spirit distilled from wine and produced in the Cognac region of France." The grape variety there produces a wine that has a high level of acidity and usually low alcohol content.

When we had an opportunity to visit Hennessy some time back, we were elated to see the 350-year-old brewery. It was during the reign of Louis XV that an Irishman, named Richard Hennessy, came to France. He stayed back at Cognac, a city on the Charente river north of Bordeaux, and founded the original Hennessy cellars in 1765. Hennessy, today, has become synonymous with high quality cognac.

As an introduction to the refinery and its products, we were shown a short film. But, unfortunately, the commentary was in French, which many tourists could not understand. The next part — a visit to the dark cellars where the brandy is blended and matured before hitting the market (and the fiery throat) as cognac, was really interesting.

Our guide Sandrine told us that it wasn’t easy for the produce to be marketed as "cognac". It has to be produced in a clearly defined region around the town of Cognac, where the chalky, stony soil and sunny temperate climate is ideal for vine growing; the wine has to be made only using certain grape varieties; this white wine has to go through the process of double distillation; then aged naturally in oak casks, she explained.

The traditional vineyards of the Cognac region are divided into six growth areas or crus, each with its different characteristics. To ensure the exceptional quality of its cognacs, Hennessy uses only eau-de-vie from the first four crus — Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies and Fins Bois — those, which have the best topsoil and chalky subsoil. The grape variety covering most of the vineyard for the production of cognac is called Ugni Blanc which produces a fruity, light white wine ideal for distillation.

The eau-de-vie must be aged in oak casks to develop the aromas, flavours and colours of cognac. It cannot be sold to the public until it has been aged for at least two years after distillation. All around us in semi-darkness were hundreds of barrels placed horizontally with the year painted on it. (I spotted one that had 1893 on it).

During the aging, the eau-de-vie loses some of its strength and volume and at least two per cent of the alcohol evaporates through the porous oak barrels. They call it "the angels" share.’

After our visit to the brewery, we reached the modern building, designed by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte in 1995, which houses the museum showcasing the company’s heritage. The story of Richard Hennessy and his cognac is told through films, posters, advertisements and a collection of bottles of how the design developed over the years. There was one particular bottle — old cognac in a newly designed bottle — a limited edition that costs 3500 euros.

Another interesting aspect of the tour was a leisurely round in their boutique showing ultra-modern décor and displaying full range of Hennessy products. And finally, a taste of Hennessy cognac. It was worth the wait.

HOME