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Travellers to Leh and Ladakh find idyllic beauty even
in sub-zero temperatures, says
LIKE the Pamir Knot, the cold and high altitude desert of Leh and Ladakh is also referred to as the "roof of the world". Surely, it is so with the world’s highest motorable pass — the Khardung La, also popularly known as K-Top. It stands at a mighty height of 18,400 feet above sea level surrounded by snow peaks all around. It was snowing when I went up in June 2005. To know the temperature of the pass, I saw the digital thermometer I had carried with me. It showed -4`B0C. At night, the temperature drops to -10`B0C to -40`B0C. The cold winds blowing make it biting cold. My hands were very cold as I was not wearing gloves. Army personnel advise people not to stay there for more than half an hour as apart from the extreme cold the oxygen concentration is just 40-60 per cent of the normal concentration. Oh! I forgot to tell you of the important quotation: "Wise are those who take complete rest on their first day as only then they can do their work on the second day onwards efficiently". I did exactly this so that I could adapt to the low oxygen, the cold and the high altitude. I took a lot of fluids like water, juice and hot soup, the last being very welcome in the cold evenings. I noted that the cold desert had barren soil that was composed of small pebbles and very big stones. There were fertile spots in patches that were developed by farmers and the Agriculture Department. Leh berries and juice is an example of a Leh product. There is a food industry unit that is exploring the potential products of the area. The women’s society of Leh is very active and has set up an outlet selling fresh food and juice products at nominal prices. I had a refreshing drink at this place. I was really impressed at not finding plastic bags there. As a result, the streets are very clean. I purchased some china tea bowls that were wrapped in paper. I asked the shopkeeper to give me a plastic bag but he handed me a paper bag. I complimented him for the non-polluting, eco-friendly paper bag and walked out with a smile thinking that this was a good practise that we, too, should adopt. I was wondering why many people’s faces looked blackened. I learnt that it was due to the environment of the area. During the day the sun’s rays are very intense and so are the ultraviolet rays. The rays, combined with the location, are responsible for ‘blackening’ of the people. I saw many people covering their faces with a cloth to avoid this exposure. At night, the sky is very clear due to less polluting dust and particles in the air. The Indian Astronomical Observatory is located about 250 km away from Leh. One can observe and study the heavenly bodies clearly. Pangong Lake is about 150 km southeast of Leh. A part of it is in India while the other part is in China. It is a brackish lake that gives a great view. It is a most beautiful natural brackish lake around 120 km in length and nearly 5 km in width. An Army camp controls the vehicular traffic. Many tourist tents are seen in the periphery of the lake. En route the lake is a pass, the Changla, that is 17,800 ft above sea level. Twice, I had to stop for snow clearance by the bulldozers. The car drivers prefer to go in a convoy as they feel if they are stuck the others will help. Many police and Army checkposts have to be crossed. The inner line permit issued by the District Magistrate, Leh, is checked. The Army people are very hospitable and offer first aid, toilet and refreshments. Hot tea offered by them in big mugs is much needed and welcomed. I was amazed to see so many yaks and mountain horses. I walked on a lake that was frozen. I remembered Rideau Canal in Ottawa on which people walk and skate. The local people told me that there were no snakes in Leh as they could not adapt to the surroundings and the climate. Man is an exception and can adapt to diverse climatic conditions. The highest training centre of the scouts is located there (11,050 ft) and so is the highest airport. It is a real sight to see the meeting point of the rivers Indus and Zangskar from the hill high above. The Indus appears green but when it meets the Zangskar the water turns muddy and eventually flows to Pakistan via the Kargil region. The monasteries are very big and old. In the Alchi monastery there are paintings on the walls. One can see so many stupas. I had taken a torch to see the intricate paintings on the walls as the monasteries are lit by natural light only and it’s dark inside. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for me. The people of the area are warm and helpful. I carried the sweet memories back with me and took some snaps. At times, I listen to the Ladakhi cassette I purchased from a shop in the outskirts of Leh. |
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