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Pushpesh Pant on the choicest cuts of meat THOSE who eat meat are usually choosy about the ‘preferred cuts’, if they can help it. Some relish the gole boti culled from the raan hind leg more than the dastii shoulder, others instruct the butcher to give them a nulli cracked to facilitate sucking the marrow or few pieces of seena and puth to make the meal really enjoyable.
We have even come across a vocal minority that can come to blows defending the pride of the place assigned in their mind to gardan — allegedly, it is most succulent, being the part of the body exercised most by the goat while grazing. If there is one cut that is popular with all it is the chop or chapen in vernacular. It is meat on the bones, takes little time to cook, can be used in curries but is savoured best in roasted form. Can you imagine a barra sans a chop? If the butcher can be persuaded to really flatten a single chop like a pasanda after only one of the three bones is allowed to remain in place, you can really create magic with it — serving a main course draped in finger-licking gravy. It was Vinod Dua who introduced us to the delectable adaraki champ that the sardarji dishes out at his Mayapuri outlet in West Delhi. It reveals its delicate pink interior after a bite, almost blushing. Nothing is allowed to interfere with the natural taste of the succulent meat with the exception bog ginger and limejuice. Firangi pork or lamb chops can’t hold the proverbial candle to it. Alas, the delicacy requires a top notch professional with a sure touch at the tandoor, and as the reality shows on the small screen caution, not to be attempted by the amateur at home. Fortunately, there is another old favourite from the classical
repertoire of Awadh that despite its deterring title is quite easy to
replicate. The "gingery maiden in the veil" we bring to our
readers this time is from the menu of the legendary eatery Bismillah in
Ameenabad, presided over by Raju Miyan a man proud of his culinary
heritage and in love with his city. |