Food Talk
The any-time snack

Sago serves as a light, nourishing meal, writes Pushpesh Pant

ONE’S earliest memories of sabudana are as a kheer or khichri — comparatively more appetising part of the otherwise rather insipid falahara- fasting fare. There was no Janmashtami or Shivaratri without it and it was a fixture on Ekadshi or Poornima.

For us children, it sure beat the kotu ki roti and dahi ke alu sans salt hands down. Only rarely has one come across the sabudana papar with the blistered look hardly any match for the spicy Amritsari stuff packing a much greater punch.

Years later, it came as surprise during a field trip in Indonesia that cooked in coconut milk the kosher pearls were transformed into a mildly sweet and highly valued desert delicacy.

It was an eye-opener that sabudana was a gift received from sago palms, an ingredient dear to cooks in Europe since the Renaissance. By the 17th century, it was used as a thickening in soups and broths.

But who had thought that one day we would suddenly fall in love with the good-old sago? It was a hot afternoon, not so long ago when in Delhi Haat the temptation proved irresistible. One was yearning for something light and refreshing — a little bite with some tang and Mrs Chiplunkar, the woman who presides over the stove at the Maharashtra state eatery there, suggested the sabudana bada.

Accompanied by two chutneys red and green, the plateful turned out to be absolute winner. One can adopt the basic recipe as per taste — it can be made a lot more substantial by incorporating some boiled potato mash or served with an impromptu sauce like gravy concocted with tomato puree and kasuri methi to appear as an additional side dish. You can have it for breakfast or enjoy it at teatime. It can be a different starter for the vegetarian guests.

But for us, its greatest virtue is as a substitute for the heavy sleep-inducing lunch. Balance it with green salad, a little yoghurt, some fruit and nimbu pani and you are hardly likely to miss the roti-chawal. We were heartened to see the many people who were making a meal out of the sabudana khichri and sabudana bada. Ever since that day we have been toying with the idea of experimenting with this half-forgotten versatile deshi ingredient with wonderful crunch and unusual looks that lends itself to myriad uses — both for sweet and savoury dishes.

A food-loving friend has been suggesting that a blending with a miniscule amount of cooked mince should be tried. Other foodie favours an injection of fruits. Strict vegetarians can think of marrying sago with a medley of colourful veggies set off against its spotless base. We believe that it is a great filler — sure it is starch but a little goes a long way. Also it is one of the few Indian recipes that can be enjoyed cold without any loss in taste.

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