A city frozen in time

Sudha Jhunjhunwala on Bruges, which retains its medieval touch and old-world charm with its museums and tapestries

Bruges is fondly called the Venice of the North. It may be a feeble comparison, yet it is such a charming, totally medieval city, easily navigable by foot. A 45-minute train journey from Brussels brought us to Bruges.

The history of Bruges goes back to the Roman settlements of the second and third centuries AD. It was the Counts of Flanders who laid the foundation of a stronghold in the 9th century. By the 11th century, it had blossomed into an international commercial centre due to the production of high-quality textiles whose trade was aided by a direct access to the sea. Astonishingly, around 1350, its population numbered 40,000 to 45,000, double the amount of its present-day inhabitants.

In the 15th century, it was acquired by the Dukes of Burgundy through marriage. Banking and trade flourished and funded the growth of Bruges’ Golden Age. Many majestic buildings, palaces and churches were built and the creative arts patronised. Ateliers of famous painters such as Van Eyck and Memling, known as the "Flemish Primitives," were set up.

However, by the end of the century, the Burgundian court moved out due to its conquest by the Spaniards, as well as the silting of the coastal areas. This brought about the end of the Golden Age and the beginning of a steep decline.

There are many ways of exploring Bruges — constantly moving buses with drivers-cum guides; horse-drawn carriages, which clip-clop across the cobbled streets while the drivers point out the sights; boats which traverse the canals that criss-cross the city. There is so much to see, but the best way is to get a leisurely introduction to the town by a professional guide.

The Provost’s House is a Baroque building of the 17th century that was the seat of the Burgundian Seigneurs, which houses a miniature stone replica of a 10th century cathedral out in the open. Next door, there is the Basilica of the Holy Blood which has not one but two chapels. The one on the ground floor is stark Romanesque in style, built in the 12th century. The first floor chapel built in the 19th century is Neo-Gothic in style. This is where the relic of the Holy Blood is kept for worshippers.

A few steps away is the City Hall dating to the 14th and 15th centuries and is one of the oldest city halls of the low countries. The focal point of this building is the Gothic Hall boasting a high wooden-vaulted ceiling painted in beautiful colours, liberally embellished with gold. The walls are adorned with huge historic portraits and paintings. We were then led to the beautifully proportioned "Brugse Vrije" which acted as the Court of Justice till the 1980s. Today, it houses the city’s administrative offices, including the Tourist Office.

Just about wherever one goes, the presence of the towering Belfry could be felt. After climbing its 366 steps, one can have a fantastic view from the top. There is a treasure room, now a museum, on the second floor. The Belfry’s carillon is still one of the best in the world, and concerts are played on it three times a year.

Crossing a small bridge over one of the crisscrossing canals, one comes across one of the most amazing concepts of security for single women in medieval times — the Beguinage. A large enclosed area with sturdy gates, which were closed at dusk, held many small individual houses meant as refuge for needy women. Run by sisters of a religious order, it was self sufficient in all respects and provided the inmates an outlet for their capabilities.

Later, the Church of Our Lady (13th-15th century) has a rich art collection. The piece de resistance is a white marble Madonna with Child sculpted by Michelangelo. One can stop at the Groeninge Museum to view the collection of the Flemish Primitives. Fortunately for us, six masterpieces of Membling, as well as his famous tabernacle had been shifted here due to renovations at their original home.

The palace of the Lords of Gruuthuse, now a museum, hold an array of sculptures, paintings, tapestries, furniture and silverware.

Shopping is a delight in Bruges. The wares, consisting of handmade lace and tapestries, unfortunately machine-made, are aesthetically displayed in shops. Prices vary, and one has to look around before deciding. A local produce market had also been set up in the main square. The entire city is one of historic buildings frozen in time, waiting to be discovered.

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