Havelis of Jaisalmer
Anuradha Thakur

Among the various tourist delights that Jaisalmer offers, the carved havelis stand apart. The stone carvers of Jaisalmer have transformed these huge mansions into exquisite works of art.

Jaisalmer was founded by Prince Jassal of the Bhatti clan of Rajputs in 1156. The fort was built on top of the Tricuta hill, and the palace constructed at its highest point. Initially, the city population lived within the walls of the fort, but later as it expanded, the city developed outside as well. Since Jaisalmer is located on the ancient spice route, its royalty amassed wealth by imposing taxes on the caravans that passed through the city and the residents became rich by trading with merchants. While at other places in Rajasthan, Rajputs bedeck their houses with paintings and murals, in Jaisalmer they decorate these with fine stone carving and filigree work. Apart from the fine royal palace, three havelis are worth mentioning.

The largest and the most beautiful haveli known as Patwon-ki-Haveli belonged to the Patwas who were merchants dealing in brocade and gold/silver embroidery. The business of Guman Chand Patwa, head of this family, was expanded up to Afghanistan in the west and China in the north. His five sons started building this mansion in 1800.

Consisting of five interlinked suites, this haveli, which took 50 years to complete, is a protected monument now. It exhibits an elaborate filigree work on stone. The dexterous fingers of the stone carvers have created masterpieces of art, better and minute than those found on the Taj Mahal. It also houses a museum, where various rooms used by the Patwas, along with their household items, have been kept intact to provide a glimpse of their lifestyle. Besides exhibiting the lifestyle of the Patwas, they also hint at their aesthetic taste.

The second haveli is that of Salim Singh who was the prime minister of Jaisalmer in the mid-nineteenth century. This six-storeyed mansion, named after him as Salim Singh-ki-haveli, has its top designed in a unique architectural style — narrower on the lower side and wider on the upper side. Supported by carved brackets, its cantilever style upper storey shows admirable workmanship. Be it the patterns of the filigree work, peacocks sitting in niches, or the overall embellishment, everything speaks of the hours spent by artisans of the yesteryear.

Nathmalji-ki-haveli was the latest to be built in the late nineteenth century. It was constructed by Nathmal, the then prime minister of Jaisalmer. Its two facades were designed and carved by two brothers named Hathu and Lallu. Elephants carved from yellow sandstone still guard it.

The havelis give us a peep into the rigid lifestyle of that society. Social norms and cooling dictated the architectural style of these mansions. Usually there were two courtyards — an outer one for the men and inner for women and children. The first floor balconies, overhanging the streets, had latticed windows enabling the women to view the outside world without being looked at.

The courtyard had a kitchen in one corner with a large trough of water constructed in the adjoining room. This was filled through an opening in the outer wall of the room by a camel driver carrying casks filled with water. In the evening, family members would sit there on cots and gossip.

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