Food Talk
 Bitter is better

The traditional Bengali meal begins with bitter shukto, a mix of various vegetables, writes Pushpesh Pant

shuktoBengal, in the popular mind, is associated with fish and sweets. Mishti is the language and the music, in the land of rosogulla, sondesh, lobong lotika, mishti doi, and much, much more. But make no mistake the sweets are only partially representative of the rich culinary repertoire of this region.

The cuisine here gives equal importance to shadras — the six basic flavours including the tikta-the bitter. As a matter of fact, at times you are made to feel that "bitter is better". This taste, predominant in vegetables like the bitter gourd and fenugreek, is believed to be great for cleansing the palate and letting the digestive system flow. According to ayurveda, the karela is also an effective blood purifier and great for improving sugar metabolism.

Lovers of fine food are not impressed by the doctor’s prescription and great trouble is taken to disguise or remove the bitterness of vegetable by dehydrating it (after sprinkling with salt and letting it "weep" silently) or "stuffing" the poor thing with gur and the likes of mashed spicy potatoes or paneer. (We must concede though, that we have quite enjoyed the non-bitter, non-veg mince filled dum ka karela dished in Lucknow.

Elsewhere, the karela may be a butt of jokes — ooper se neem chadha etc.- and only consumed mostly under duress, but in Bengal it is treasured. Even the peels are cherished. The traditional Bengali meal begins with shukto, a mix of various vegetables, with an accent on the bitter. Any choice of vegetables preferred and seasonally available can be combined in the recipe. This is a dish that allows an opportunity for many of the "plebian" vegetables to occupy centrestage. It is fascinating that different subtle microtones of bitter are played out in this culilnary symphony.

Shukto
Ingredients 

Medium-sized potatoes, peeled 
and cut into 1'' pieces lengthwise 100 gm 
Sweet potatoes, peeled and 
cut into 1 " pieces 100 gm 
White radish, peeled and
cut into 1 " pieces lengthwise 100 gm 
Drumsticks, cut into 1 " pieces lengthwise 100 gm 
Plantains, peeled and cut into 
1" pieces lengthwise 100 gm 
Broad beans, cut into 1" pieces lengthwise 100 gm 
Small bitter gourd, peeled and
cut into 1" pieces lengthwise 100 gm 
Brinjal, cut into 1" pieces lengthwise 100 gm 
Mustard oil 2 tbsp 
Small matar dal bori 12 
Ginger paste 2 tsp 
Black mustard seeds, ground to a paste 1 tsp 
Carom seed paste tsp
Water 2 cups 
Bay leaves two 
Ghee 1 tsp 
Milk 2 tbsp 
Salt to taste
Panch phoron, roasted and powdered 

Method

Heat the mustard oil in a wok till it smokes. Reduce heat and fry the matar dal bori. Remove from pan and keep aside. In the same oil sauté, the two kinds of potato, drumsticks and bitter gourd for 3 minutes over medium heat. Add the rest of the vegetables and stir. 
Mix ginger paste, black mustard paste and carom seed paste in water and strain through a fine muslin strainer. Add to vegetables. Add salt to taste, cover and cook until the vegetables are done. Add the bori, bay leaves and ghee and cook for another 2 minutes. Add milk, cover and remove from heat. Sprinkle with panch phoron powder. Serve with steamed rice. This is usually served as the first course. 

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