|
Pushpesh Pant on how tamatar gosht, an interesting variation with the gravy of butter chicken, has a unique taste BUTTER chicken is perhaps as famous as tandoori murg. Much before Pankaj Mishra found it in Ludhiana, there were dozens of chefs claiming parenthood. Any food historian worth his salt knows that the dish was invented by many a nameless dhabhawala simultaneously who wanted to utilise the leftover chicken. The incorporation of butter in a generous measure created an aura of richness and copious quantities of tomatoes imparted the colour that successfully disguised the scars received in the tandoor. The sweet and sour taste of the curry could be enjoyed with roti and rice and two could easily share a plate. The thigh and breast were ‘softened’, even though temporarily, when they were simmered in sauce. The problem is that whenever you order butter chicken at a roadside kiosk, there is always a lurking suspicion that one is being served a recycled chicken. Even when you cook it at home, it seems to be an admission of inadequacy — the guests feel that the cook has taken the easy way out. There are, of course, other versions of butter chicken like the one served at the New Alamgir in Lucknow. It avoids tomatoes like plague and is reminiscent of chicken ala Kiev — sinful butter just oozes out even if you just caress the chicken breast. The hue is creamy white and the flavour subtle, peppery and cardamom laced. The butter chicken gravy taste has become an all-time favourite. Recently, we were treated to an interesting variation in a Delhi restaurant. What was offered was spicy tamatar gosht but all we could taste was the butter chicken. Not that we are complaining. It seemed to ensure a two-in-one delight — the bite of mutton, including the pleasures of chaap and nalli draped in the good old makhni gravy.
|