haute talk
Future dress code
Sumona Menon

DESIGNERS are now talking about a "futuristic dress sense" — wearable clothes that would be relevant not just for 2005 or 2006, but for at least another decade.

Significantly, there’s nothing avant garde or out-of-the ordinary about such speculation. Head propellers and breastplates, for instance, are recognised as no more than absurdities meant to make a fashion statement.

As Manish Malhotra, the designer singularly responsible for removing all frills from traditional Indian clothing, puts it: "I make clothes that can be worn for all time. People don’t change what they wear overnight. You can’t expect women walking around in space suits all of a sudden."

Similarly for Rina Dhaka, fashion would gradually turn towards minimalism. "Less is more," she asserts. "Technology is going, to play a major role in determining how men and women dress in the next few years."

By technology, she means more synthetic and chemically treated fibres. According to her, cotton and natural fibres could come to a "limited use" in ethnic dresses such as churidar-kurtas, lehnga-cholis and sarees.

Among them, sarees seem to be headed for special treatment. The unstitched two, three or single-piece garment, which was draped, knotted or tucked in, has seen many variations recently to suit function, occasion, discretion and aesthetics.

The trend, according to most designers, is towards more colourful, flamboyant and amorphous sarees in imported fabrics like French printed chiffons and Chinese self-patterned silks and nets. Handloom cotton would cater to the elderly and the so-called ‘upper classes’ of society.

Veteran designers like Ritu Kumar point out that western influences would continue to dictate fashion trends, though in a restricted sense. "For instance, the little black western dress will survive in the metros, but cannot compete with chikan kurta suits," she explains.

Kumar adds that the ‘fatigue factor’ in dressing cannot be overlooked, such as black and white silhouettes, which ruled the ramps for more than a decade. Similarly, there have been fashion disasters like the polyester shirt and safari suit in male clothing.

"Designs in synthetic fabrics and imported textiles are fine so long as they provide for basic ornamentation, colour and exotica," says Rohit Khattar, a textile designer. "You cannot starve the Indian with futuristic plastic and polyester clothing."

Adds Goa-based Wendell Rodricks: "Every new year we release a line of styles that are festive in concept. Basically that means shine, sparkle, skin, sexy, black and more black. This trend will continue into the future."

Tarun Tahiliani, however, insists that technology would ultimately play an important part in design. "Fabric and material have been changing for quite a while," he explains. "So far garments that used a lot of new technology, like fish mesh and swarovski stones, were made just for fun.

"But one fabric to rule the future will be lycra. This stretch fabric is easy to wear and difficult to hide (your bulges in)... Everything would become more sleek and fitted, thanks to the heavy usage of lycra."

The fitted look would be reflected in menswear as jeans and T-shirts would dominate the youth segments. Trousers and shirts would also be sleeker and more streamlined than before, in keeping with the growing consciousness about physical fitness.

As for accessories, designer jewellery is expected to play a major role, as against traditional ornaments. "Women know that a designer’s touch lends a sense of exclusivity," says Laksh Pahuja. "A personalised piece reflects the wearer’s taste and personality."

Already, the trend is towards substitutes for gold such as silver and copper. But gold would not go out of fashion entirely. Delicate chains, studded with beads, semi-precious stones and with a gold pendant are indicative of jewellery styles in times to come.

Designer Neeta Lulla, however, sounds a word of caution: "People generally commit the mistake of getting an outfit designed first and buying their jewellery accordingly. The correct thing to do is, of course, buy the jewellery first and then get the complementary outfit designed.

"After all, the jewellery purchased is almost always for a lifetime. Unless you are one of those people who keep buying jewellery, it is prudent to choose your ornaments before you invest in any kind of clothes." — MF

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